Schulke Travel

Launch of New Video Blog - Artful Escape - Crudo Tasting at Culina

2011-11-01T15:32:00.013-05:00

I'm happy to announce the launch of my new video blog, Artful Escape. Why a video blog? I felt that writing about travel didn't quite do justice to the amazing things that are available for people to experience. Why not show it in full color and sound -- take it to the next level? Also, I don't know of any other travel advisor who is using professional videos to capture and highlight the research and conversations that help me plan the best experiences for my clients. Luckily, I have a great connection in a brother who works in the television industry and helped me conceive and create this fun concept, allowing me to jump at this new opportunity.

The first installment highlights the restaurant Culina in the Four Seasons Los Angeles. The head chef, Vic Casanova, shared a demonstration of crudo and shared with us his cooking philosophy. It was a very special and tasty afternoon. I hope you will agree.

Many thanks to Tye Schulke, Four Seasons Los Angeles, Culina, Vic Casanova, Kim Kessler, and Lynn Hutchinson at Songfaucet for helping me get this off the ground.

Stay tuned or subscribe to this blog or my YouTube channel to keep updated on upcoming installments of Artful Escape! We have some fun things coming up.

Without further ado --

Brownell Travel Featured in Luxury Travel Advisor

2011-08-10T11:59:00.003-05:00

My host agency, Brownell Travel, received the great honor of being featured on the cover of this month’s Luxury Travel Advisor. As many of you know, I am a graduate of their mentoring program, which is one of the innovative programs Brownell have implemented to stay at the forefront of attracting young talent to the travel industry. Read the article to learn more about why this agency remains at the top of the industry year after year. Congratulations to Meg and Troy and the entire Brownell family – we all have many reasons to be proud!

Oceania Cruises, Jacques Pepin and Food Geeks

2011-06-12T00:57:00.006-05:00

Last week, I was lucky to be on a webinar/phone call with Jacques Pepin himself. Jacques has been spearheading the culinary program for Oceania Cruises, and was on the call to talk about the direction of the program and some of the exciting developments in the coming year. (Can I mention how much I love this part of my job?)

In addition to a number of fantastic dining venues, including a private dining area that would knock your socks off, Jacques is opening a new restaurant on the cruise line this year called Jacques. This restaurant will feature hand-chosen menu items from Jacques' childhood and restaurants he has led in the past. Super exciting and a must-see for any foodie.

But of all the great things I learned about on the call, and the thrill of Jacques Pepin himself doing the the program, one picture on the presentation made the food geek in me sit up, snap to attention and scramble to take a quick screenprint:

See that little photo in the upper left-hand corner? Where they are mapping out the exact placement of all the ingredients on the plate? And then on the right-hand side where they are comparing color palettes for sauces? It's like organization and project management combined with food in the best possible way. Holy Hannah, sign me up. That is a place this project manager wants to eat.

True Insider Experiences - New Orleans and Emeril

2011-03-23T22:52:00.004-05:00

I was recently in New Orleans for a fun weekend of St. Patrick's Day parades, fantastic dinners out with friends, live jazz and a Creole cooking class that had us drooling over green gumbo and stuffed artichokes. But more on that later.

During that trip, I had an insider experience that just can't be replicated. My friends and I met the chef for our class at a wonderful old New Orleans joint in her neighborhood called Casamentos. The chef had called ahead to plan our visit the day before and found out that a very special celebrity chef would be holding court and serving oysters that day, and she got us front row seats for the demonstration.

As you can see, we not only had spectacularly fresh-shucked oysters with amazing homemade cocktail sauce, but they were prepared and served to us by Emeril Lagasse himself. He was filming a new TV show for the Cooking Channel called The Originals, which features his favorite foods and restaurants in a number of U.S. cities. Now THAT was an insider experience for the ages - check out our perma-grins!

(Thanks to my friend Cisa for the photo!)

Casamentos Restaurant - New Orleans

http://www.casamentosrestaurant.com/main/main.html

The Originals on the Cooking Channel

http://www.cookingchanneltv.com/the-originals-with-emeril/index.html

Travel to Japan - The Current State of Affairs for Tourism

2011-03-16T11:22:00.006-05:00

As a travel advisor who specializes in Japan, I have a number of valued friends and colleagues in Japan and am happy to say that everyone is safe and accounted for. The tragedy is certainly weighing heavily on everyone and will be on our minds for years to come.

But what does travel to Japan look like now? A number of people have asked me about the situation and wondered if they should postpone or cancel travel either because of operational issues or safety issues. The US State Department has issued a travel alert through the end of March discouraging travel to the country as things return to normal. However, as can be the case in these situations, the tourism industry is desperate for people to fill hotels and tours and is concerned about what an ongoing decrease in visitors will do to their already shell-shocked economy. It remains up to the individual traveler to weigh their personal feelings about travel hassles and safety against the ability to truly help bolster the people and economy at this difficult time.

Here is a quick run-down of the information I've received from contacts in Japan:

1. Tsunami Now:

All tsunami warnings along Japanese coasts were cancelled.

2. Earthquake Now:

There was a magnitude 4.1 earthquake in Tokyo area yesterday. But it had been forecasted with an intensity of magnitude 7 so it was a relief for the people in the region.

3. Blackout Now:

Kanto Area including Tokyo and Yokohama will have rotating blackouts for a while to save energy. Each area is expected to have a blackout for about 4 hours a day until March 18 but it may change or cancel. The hardest part is to organize the ever complicated multiple train schedules. Blackouts or some kind of energy saving measure is expected to continue till the end of April.

4. Transportations Now:

-Bullet Train Line to Tohoku Region (affected areas) was reopened partially.

-Bullet Train from Tokyo to Kyoto: 12 trains are cancelled today. It is not because of the energy shortage but operator shortage due to the difficulty in commuting to work.

-Bullet Train from Tokyo to Nagano: Normal operation.

-Narita Express from Narita Airport to Tokyo: Not in operation

-Limousine bus from Narita to Tokyo: Normal operation

-Narita Airport: Open

-Kansai Airport: Open

-Highways in Tokyo region, to Karuizawa, to Kyoto: Open

5. People Now:

People as well as business in other parts of Japan have begun conserving energy voluntarily by lighting the minimum necessary lights or turn it off earlier than normal, etc. Although people's favorite rice balls and sandwiches at delis are short in Tokyo, everyone is patient because they know that all those foods should be shipped to the affected areas first. There is no looting reported in the disaster areas. People there are buying or being provided the allowed amount of food orderly. There were, however, some confusions at some stations in Tokyo area due to the cancelled trains for the blackout. Some people had to take cabs or even walk home. But overall, people in Japan seem to understand it is not the time to complain but determine to fight through this hardship together as they did after WWII.

Most major hotels are fully operational and back to 'business as usual'.

In general, there are a number of places in the country that were not touched by the earthquake or tsunami, and are not affected by the ongoing recovery efforts and rolling blackouts. Kyoto is included in that area, which can be a destination unto itself. As important as it is to maintain one's safety and comfort while traveling (noting fully that these qualities are at different levels for different people), it is also important to keep in mind that tourists can make a real difference in helping Japan recover from the events of the past week, not only financially but mentally. As one of my friends in Japan said best: "Please support Japan by sending your clients there once everything is settled."

Hotel Report - Coeur d'Alene Resort

2011-02-16T23:22:00.004-06:00

I stayed at Coeur d’Alene Resort for a weekend in late November.

Location

Lake Coeur d’Alene in Idaho is a glacial lake about 25 miles long and varying from 1-3 miles wide. Due to its setting surrounded by wooded mountains, it has been voted the most beautiful lake in the world by National Geographic and is a very upscale community. The lake is about 220 feet deep at its deepest point making it a good spot for salmon, trout, and pike fishing. The water is often chilly but a good break from hot summer weather for swimming and water sports. In high season, it is a ‘see and be seen’ type of town. The resort is on the northwest side of Lake Coeur d’Alene, right in the heart of town so guests can walk everywhere. Parking is either in a ramp or surface lot behind the hotel. There is a large marina if guests want to bring their boat to keep during their stay for fishing, cruising, etc. The nearest airport is Spokane (GEG), about 45 minutes away. The resort is a high rise – about 18 floors with views over the lake and town.

Rooms

I really liked the comfortable room and was impressed by the design. I was in a corner deluxe lakeview room on the 16th floor facing the lake. When you walk in, there is a large bathroom and dressing area to your left with large closet and dresser, vanity with dual sinks and very large granite countertop. Behind that area is a separate room with toilet, sunken tub, and separate tiled walk-in shower. Past the bathroom, is the bed facing the lake. At the foot of the bed is a sunken living room with couch and chair, a private terrace with chairs for two and a small table, and a desk. There is a small gas fireplace in the corner. Colors are in beiges and dusty blues with chenille coverings and modern looking furniture. Up a level on the same level as the bed, there is a large window seat with louvered shutters and large pillows for reading. The soaps, etc. are proprietary, made for the resort with all-natural ingredients and recycled packaging.

The only bad thing is the door to the toilet is actually two half doors that come together to close in the middle, so it isn’t totally sealed or private.

Dining/Drinking

This was hit or miss. The main dining room, Beverly’s, is on the 6th floor of the resort and has beautiful views out over the lake. It has a large walk-in wine cellar and personal wine cubbies for regular guests. The décor is golden woods – browns and blues with copper finish on the railings and light fixtures. It is well-known for its cuisine, but unfortunately was closed while I was there between holidays and I never had a chance to try it.

There is a bar on the main floor, Whispers, that has a cozy large open fireplace in the middle of the room and serves a bar menu and drinks. Service was very good – I didn’t eat here.

There is another café and bar area called Dockside which is the casual dining area. Think very casual. The menus are Perkins-style laminate and the food is just OK. I have been there for breakfast a few times and the food has been fine but nothing special. Unfortunately, the room itself is getting very tired–looking and the beautiful view doesn’t distract from the tired carpet and booths. In addition, the servers’ attire is very casual which seems to affect the overall vibe of the place. What is disappointing is this is the only in-house alternative when the fine dining venue is closed.

Activities

The golf course is renowned for their floating hole – one of the only ones in the world. You have to boat out to finish your putts on the 16th. The golf course is down the lakeshore to the east of the resort and is accessible via shuttle, boat or private car. There is a large pro shop and a small little pub with good food and views out over the lake.

From the resort proper, there are sightseeing cruises and water sports, a large spa, indoor pool, and fishing. There are three boutiques featuring clothing, art, and jewelry as well as a convenience store. A short drive away in Spokane you can find sporting events, larger shopping centers and the closest airport.

In the winter, main activities are sightseeing cruises on the lake (both during the day and evening), shopping and touring the town of Coeur d’Alene (a lot of art galleries and small boutiques), and other seasonal activities they plan within the resort – often for kids. They had holiday arts and crafts for kids when I was there. The Schweitzer ski resort is between 60-90 minutes away and they will coordinate day trips for skiers.

Staff and Overall Vibe

The hotel staff was very accommodating and nice to speak to. We were very pleased in general with that aspect of the hotel. However, you don’t automatically know where to go for what when you enter, it isn’t entirely obvious what activities are available and where to do them, and the inside décor, while very cozy, feels dark and a little too closed in at night. I think communication with the guests on what’s available needs to be improved so people aren't wandering aimlessly around the hotel. The rooms are lovely, the view is priceless, and for a short stay, I would definitely recommend the resort. For a longer stay, I might want to have some activities setup in advance.

Other favorite dining experiences of 2010

2011-01-13T22:43:00.004-06:00

A few more places that definitely warrant a return visit.

Miku - melt in your mouth Aburi-style sushi in a contemporary vibe-y space in Vancouver, British Columbia not far from the ferry terminal. The sake and the house music go to your head, so 'tis best to walk back to your hotel. http://mikurestaurant.com/

Lambs Club - full of buzz at the Hotel Chatwal in New York City. Dine in a sumptuous red leather banquette, marvel at the huge original fireplace, and listen as the owner holds court in the corner. A place to be seen and drink classic cocktails in a classic space. http://www.thechatwalny.com/

Chief's Camp, Botswana - dine out underneath the stars in the heart of the Okavango Delta. If you're there on the right night, you will feast on barbecue as the staff presents a moving recital of local songs and dancing. A once in a lifetime experience. http://www.sanctuaryretreats.com/lodges/botswana/chiefs-camp.cfm

Kasuke - multi-course Japanese feasts served in a stunning dining room at Hoshinoya Karuizawa about one hour north of Tokyo by Shinkansen. Loosen your belt and be prepared to sleep well. Bring a friend to share the spoils. http://www.hoshinoya.com/en/

Top 5 Dining Experiences of 2010

2011-01-13T21:30:00.014-06:00

It seems like everyone has a "Top List of Something" from 2010. Not to be outdone, here are the top five dining experiences I had in 2010. "Experience" in my mind means a perfect storm of ambiance, food, service, my mood, and barometric pressure. So yes, this is totally subjective. My list, in chronological order:

Tapas - Tokyo, Japan

I had just spent over a week in Japan, eating fantastic local cuisine prepared with historical accuracy and presented by the most exacting servers. Tapas' level of service was no less perfect, but the food was molecular takes on classics, the chef was American and gave great explanations, and I spent a 25-course meal with only 7 other diners -- a Taiwanese family celebrating Chinese New Year. What a fantastic evening. The small bar in the Mandarin Oriental table only has two seatings a night and I was so lucky to squeeze into that experience at the last minute.

Highlights:
- Puffed BBQ pork with kuwai, star anise, and port
- Spider crab and jamon iberico with ice plant, aged chardonnay vinegar, pistachio and grapefruit gelee (above)
- Baccalo espume - salt cod, cream, butter, piquillo peppers, almond brandade mousse

Piccolo - Minneapolis, Minnesota

The amount of preparation, planning, and care that goes into just one of the small plates at this restaurant would amaze you. Some have complained about portion size, but those are the people who just don't feel the love that comes across in every perfectly created dish. The night was snowy-sleety and the small candle-lit restaurant was a cozy respite. I walked through the kitchen and waved at the smiling chefs as they worked. A small little restaurant with small little plates and a whole lot of innovative charm.

Highlights:
- Pork belly kielbasa with dried apples, parsnip, and truffled pecorino
- Magret duck with ham hock brioche, jellied cranberries, and smoked pine syrup
- Monterey Bay squid with Portuguese chourico sausage, shoshito peppers, and coriander

Ellerman House - Cape Town, South Africa

A warm June evening out on the terrace at Ellerman House. Only one other table is occupied. The ocean crashes on the rocks below and the palm trees flutter in the breeze. The sun sets. Our personal servers ladle on exquisite food, boundless amounts (it seemed) of fantastic local wines, big smiles, and a sense of humor. The manager stops by and sits, regales us with stories of living in the bush and growing up in Africa. An otherworldly evening thousands of miles from home, but home at the same time.

Highlights:
- Generous pours of South African wines
- Impala steak with local herbs and vegetables (from the property)
- Staff you want to pack in your suitcase and take home with you

Post Hotel - Lake Louise, Alberta, Canada

Mom and I escaped the hub-bub of Fairmont Chateau Lake Louise for a cozy meal at Post Hotel. Seated in the back wine room, we felt like we had the place to ourselves. We could look out at the mountains and faintly hear the river rapids running by the property. The food was the most elegantly prepared I had all year. The log cabin room was accented by candles and live jazz piano coming from the next room. Conversation was markedly light and the dining room was filled with the laughter of old friends. The server had a twinkle in his eye and took us on a private tour of the wine cellar and cigar room.

Highlights:
- Remarkable wine list and cellar
- Happiest dining room
- Not a single misstep in the food

Beast - Portland, Oregon
You won't believe this, but it was raining when I was in Portland. Running indoors to escape, I could instantly see Beast was going to give me an experience. Guests eat all-together at two large wooden tables and watch six-course meals miraculously appear out of a two burner cooktop, an oven, and a large butcher block prep island. As you watch the orchestra of preparation, you read funny quotes on the walls and hear funny comments from the servers. The chef walks around the room and answers questions about the food, the decor, the staff, and more. Beast is a serious foodie destination that excels in that it refreshingly isn't so serious.
Highlights:
- The best bang for my buck all year
- Innovative charcuterie plate could be a meal in itself
- The biggest, nuttiest pork chop I have seen in my life

Links:
Tapas - http://www.mandarinoriental.com/tokyo/dining/molecular/
Piccolo - http://www.piccolompls.com/
Ellerman House - http://www.ellerman.co.za/
Post Hotel - http://www.posthotel.com/posthotel/index.html
Beast - http://www.beastpdx.com/

CNN Top Destinations for 2011 - Norway

2011-01-10T19:58:00.005-06:00

I traveled to New York in October to attend a presentation put on by The Travel Designer - a company that specializes in customized travel to Scandinavia, and especially Norway. I think many people have always thought of Norway as a destination for scenic beauty, but - as some of us experts already know - it's a great location for adventure, music, art, and cuisine.

Some of the experiences that are available to clients include: skydiving onto a glacier, a private fjord cruise with dinner and live opera (imagine the sound!), delicious gourmet cooking, farm experiences, fishing, and the Bergen Film Festival.

As a result of that October event, CNN has named Norway #5 on its Top Destinations for 2011, highlighting specifically its adventure offerings and some of the spectacular companies that presented. If you've been considering a trip to Norway, it's obvious that the time is now.

Read the full CNN article here.

Walking With Elephants and Baines' Camp - Okavango Delta

2010-12-29T14:36:00.018-06:00

One of the most amazing experiences I have had – not only in Africa, but anywhere – was Walking with Elephants. I was staying in the Okavango Delta in Botswana at a camp about an hour’s drive from the nearest dirt airstrip, and this was one of the optional activities they provided. Right after breakfast on our second day, four of us hopped into a jeep with our guides and headed out into the bush. We drove for about an hour and then stopped in an area which seemed to be near nothing. After a few minutes, three elephants came into view along with their handlers. For the rest of the day, I got to touch, hug, talk to, walk, eat lunch with, and learn all about those three amazing creatures.

Walking with Elephants is an activity sponsored by the Living With Elephants Foundation (LWE). LWE was founded by Doug and Sandi Groves, who were professional animal handlers in the US. They traveled to Africa to film a movie and while there, fell in love with the elephants and learned of some orphans that needed care. From that point on, their organization was born. They have spent the last twelve years in the bush of Africa taking care of their foster elephants, raising awareness of elephants, educating locals, and conducting research. More information can be found here.

I stayed at Baines’ Camp, which is located in the Okavango Delta in Botswana and is a Sanctuary Camp. When we arrived, we were greeted by the entire staff singing songs which was a fantastic touch.

Five thatched roof units on elevated walkways comprised Baines’ Camp. The walls of the units are canvas so as to not be permanent if the camp needs to be moved in the future. There is also a pool area. We had #5 which is a large bedroom with a king bed on wheels with ample mosquito netting that can be rolled out onto the equally large deck at night. Also in the bedroom are two window seats that look out over the water. The bathroom had hammered metal sinks, a walk-in shower with rain showerhead, and wilderness views. I loved showering each morning with the bats that would hang outside the window to get the moisture from the steam.

The lodge here is very small – with a few dining room tables, a lounge with internet, and a fire pit that extends out over the water. The entire space is open-air. Staff eats both breakfast and dinner with you, which was a fun way to get to know each other. The food was good – two choices for dinner entrees, and the breakfasts focused on hot cereals and breads due to the temperature outside.

There was so much water when we were there that our drives and animals were quite limited. We saw a lot of birds, hippos, giraffes, and that was about it. The length of our drives was also shortened because of the water. However, it was an anomaly to have so much water as we had, and I loved the boat rides we took in the evening - the birdlife and sunsets were lovely.

The neighboring camp, Stanley’s, allows children, and Baines’ does not. Baines’ does a lot to cater for couples and honeymooners in particular, such as private dining, private swimming, private sunset boat rides with champagne. One of the nights the pool deck was setup with dinner and candles under the stars, which was gorgeous.

Living With Elephants

http://www.livingwithelephants.org

Baines' Camp

http://www.sanctuaryretreats.com/lodges/botswana/baines-camp.cfm

Hotel Report - Oyster Box Hotel, Durban, South Africa

2010-11-17T19:35:00.002-06:00

When the weather starts getting cold, I often find myself daydreaming about warm places I've been earlier in the year. Today I caught myself daydreaming about the Oyster Box.

I arrived at The Oyster Box Hotel after a week-long safari in Zambia and Botswana. I had traveler's exhaustion, mixed with pounding heart, swirling thoughts and buzzy anticipation after seeing not only exotic animals but raucous World Cup celebrations in the Joburg airport. What an exciting time to be in Africa! But I was in need of some calm, and I couldn't have found a more relaxing place to spend the day and decompress.

The story of the hotel is adorable (and maybe even true?): A struggling businessman and his wife spend the night dining and dancing at a beachfront hotel they can't afford. The wife sighs at the loveliness of it all and the husband promises to buy it all for her someday. Fifty years later, it happened. And the hotel has been restored with an attention to detail that evokes that fairy tale story.

The beachfront rooms with terraces are light and refreshing in colors of corals, greens and blues. Some suites even have plunge pools overlooking the sea. Towards the back of the property there are some condo-style two-story units with plunge pools that have nice dark woods and leather furnishings. They are much more spacious but lack the light of the oceanfront rooms.

The spa and fitness center has a hammam and is decorated in cool whites, purples and greens. There is a large garden space by the spa for events. Overall, the hotel has two pools, a cigar room, a cinema, a kids' activity room, and a number of well-thought-out dining venues. One of my favorites was a long bar at the top of the building which overlooks the pool, ocean and has a small terrace for dining. The formal dining area has a private cellar dining room with a glass ceiling where other guests can peek in on the party.

The beach in front of the hotel is absolutely gorgeous and you can walk it for miles, watching people wade, swim, fish, sketch, and eat from the local food stands along the way. The water was very warm in June - at least to a Minnesotan, it was!

The lunch restaurant overlooks the ocean and specializes in Indian fare. The meal I had of spicy curry, South African pinotage and soaking in the Indian Ocean sun was unforgettable. And on cold days, I catch myself daydreaming.

Hotel Review - Chatwal New York

2010-11-03T21:09:00.005-05:00

I recently stayed three nights on the second floor in an executive double, which is one of three rooms on that level with a terrace. The terrace was such a fun perk with sounds of the city, yet still a bit removed and quieter than being on the street. The room location was wonderful, the only downfall being that there is an event space on the second floor, so one night it was a bit loud until about midnight as the revelers wrapped up. The room had 12 foot ceilings, two double beds, and a purple tiled bathroom with walk-in shower and television in the mirror. Everything could be controlled by the bedside phone, temp, windows, drapes, TV. The rooms have dark purple/brown leather desks and closets with leather pulls. The carpets are plush beige, and the walls are suede. Drapes are striped silk.

Getting There

The location is amazing, just a block east of Times Square on 44^th, but it can also be a bit of a pain. Now that they’ve closed Broadway going Northbound, it takes an additional 5-10 minutes to get to the hotel using a taxi or an airport transfer. Aside from that, I loved being able to walk to Bryant Park (two blocks) and Times Square (half a block), as well as other local eateries and bars. It is tough to get a cab on that street due to the Times Square blockage, so definitely have them get one for you.

Décor

The décor is Art Deco, restored to the original period of the building. It took over 10 years to restore the hotel because of historical items that needed to be taken into consideration. Some key elements are the lobby, original fireplace in the restaurant, and period photos throughout the public spaces. The lobby isn’t large, but has a two story atrium with oranges, chrome, and period furniture. It’s a main gathering spot for the hotel and a comfortable place to relax.

Lamb's Club Restaurant

Definitely a power lunch spot in addition to being hot for dinner. It is very intimate. The food was fantastic – ranging from more affordable appetizers, to higher priced entrees, but still doesn’t break the bank (around $25-40 for entrees, less for pastas and salads). The staff was spot-on, responding to every whim and bringing hand-written notes with drink recipes upon request. They even opened early to serve lunch. I recommend the foie gras and the beets, and the lemon dessert. The hotel owner holds court there frequently during the week – we saw him hanging out in the corner booth twice during our stay and we were seated next to him both times. Incidentally, he was raving about Barbados.

Bar

The upstairs bar is a bit more contemporary feeling, but still pays tribute to the period of the building. It is definitely a Manhattan hot-spot at this time and was booked for a private event one of the nights we were there. The drinks are modern renditions of classic cocktails. As tasty as they are, they are pretty spendy, as I regret picking up the tab one of the nights I was there. One of my favorite things about the bar is the classic photos of the Lambs’ Club members from back in the day – Capote, Rockefeller, Chapin, Durante, etc. etc.

Spa

There is a fitness area and a pool area. The pool area has a larger pool that can be used to swim ‘laps’ or just relax. There is also a hot tub and a cold plunge pool. There are three dressing rooms with full hairstyling items, toilet, changing area, and a large walk-in shower that can also be used for aromatherapy and/or steam. With only three treatment rooms and three changing rooms, guests are truly allowed to stay in their dressing area as long as they please either before or after their treatments. There is also a lounge area with refreshments, including beverages, ginger snaps, fruit, and granola. They will bring you homemade tea as well. My spa treatment was fantastic. The treatment rooms are lit with dim, colored lights, and high ceilings. For some treatments, the guests can determine the colors and aromas they would like in the room. The products in the spa are Kashwere, which is the softest comfortable towels and robes. The overall décor of the area is white tiles with painted green foliage and soft lighting. There are only two lounging chairs in the waiting area, which makes staying in the dressing rooms even more key.

Staff

All the staff are dressed to the nines, meticulous and so, so proud of the building. Every request was met immediately with charm and usually some additional fact about the hotel.

Issues

- Internet went in and out the entire time, which made it difficult to get work done. They said this was being worked on, so it may now be fixed.

- Check out took a bit of time due to some issues with the bill.

- The phone system wasn't working correctly and didn't have all the key numbers I needed to get in touch with staff.

Overall, this is a lovely hotel in a fantastic location and a great find for good food, drinks, and a relaxing stay.

Favorite Layover Airport - Domestic

2010-10-05T14:41:00.002-05:00

I get asked this question a lot: "What is your favorite US airport to be stuck in?" Of course, no one wants to be stuck in any airport on a layover or flight delay, but if I had to choose, I'd pick MSP for overall pleasant atmosphere, unique shopping, and high quality restaurant and bar options. The only things it lacks are free internet and a hotel within walking distance, although any number of hotels in the area have free shuttles that will pick you up if you need a rest.

Most people know you can take the light rail direct to Mall of America or downtown Minneapolis from the airport to help kill time -- where else can you hop on a ferris wheel or shop for shoes at Nordstrom during your layover? As far as restaurants go, Ike's Cocktails is my favorite for heavier fare or a stiff drink or three before a long flight. French Meadow is good for breakfast, baked goods, healthy lunches, organic and gluten-free options, and inventive (healthy, even?) cocktails with fresh juices.

However, my latest favorite in this airport is Surdyk's Flights Wine Bar and Shop. The menu has some thoughtful and tasty options for breakfast, lunch, and dinner, interesting cocktails, and the wine selections go well past your usual airport fare with quality flights and pairings. I had a great brunch there a few weeks ago of poached eggs and prosciutto with tomato salsa. Brie and manchego cheese plate with salumi? Absolutely. Expensive champagne, Ma'am? Thank you very very much.

And it's great for buying, as well. On a recent trip, I had to run to a gathering at a friend's house in Minneapolis as soon as I landed. I ran over to Surdyk's Wine Shop, grabbed what was actually a very nice and uncommon bottle of Zinfandel, and went on my merry way to baggage claim. Super slick. They will even ship wine for you if you find something you can't live without. Now if we could just bring those bottles to drink on the plane...

MSP Retail Information
www.shopsatmsp.com

French Meadow
www.frenchmeadow.com

Surdyk's Flights
www.surdyksflights.com
612.727.2323

Tips for Wine Touring in South Africa

2010-09-29T22:36:00.003-05:00

I spent a day wine touring while I was in South Africa this summer. I was lucky that my friend Claire lives in Cape Town and agreed to be our personal tour guide. But while I was there, I did some research and spoke to the local tasting rooms about what is available for other visitors to the area. Here are some tips I gathered if you are without local connections:

- There is not a ton of infrastructure yet as far as wine tour companies you can book for a day. It isn’t like Napa Valley where you can sign on with any number of nicer wine tour companies and have a really enjoyable private/semi-private experience and then be brought back to your hotel. Many of the options are full itineraries of a few days or portions of larger tours.
- The few wine tours we saw were groups of people who had been on camping trips in the area. They were having a really good time, but did not get the in-depth descriptions of the wine and personal experience that you might want if you’ve traveled 20+ hours to South Africa. Private or small group is the way to go if you can get it.
- A car can be used to drive through the area, but signage is a bit suspect at times. I was with a local Capetonian who had the most detailed map known to South Africa, and we still got lost a few times. Safety never felt like an issue, but towards the end of the day, getting lost would be stressful due to lack of lighting and signs.
- Better option is to stay at one of the hotels in the area and have them setup a tour for you. The Cape Town hotels are familiar with such requests, but there are also wonderful places to stay in the heart of the Winelands. Le Quartier Francais is one of my favorites, and the chef is amazing.

- Do take time to see the coast on the way to or from the wine country if you can. The Drakensburg Mountains and False Bay are definitely worth a detour for some photos.
- Similar to other wine tasting areas, 3-4 wineries is the max you will want to do in a day. Traffic, time for driving/finding the vineyards, meals, and sightseeing along the way will more than take up the rest of the time.
- Shipping – only a few establishments will ship to the USA, but many will ship to Canada. If you don’t want to deal with hauling and checking a case of wine, it might be time to take advantage of your long-lost connections in Canada. One of our favorite wineries from the trip, Rupert and Rothschild, will ship to the smallest of towns in Canada, but will not ship to the USA.

Wineries we visited:
Rupert and Rothschild
http://www.rupert-rothschildvignerons.com/
Located in Franschoek. A partnership with the Rothschilds in France, their red wines are definitely worth a trip. Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Bordeaux are the focus. The vineyard has a historic setting – a tasting room with plank floors and a terrace overlooking the vines and mountains in the back. Tastings by appointment only.

Tokara
http://www.tokara.co.za/winefarm/index.cfm
A wine and olive farm and restaurant in Stellenbosch. This was the most contemporary and impressive tasting building we saw on our tour. It is perched on a hill overlooking the vines below and has polished concrete floors, art, and a large tasting area with glass windows overlooking the aging room. I really liked their Sauvignon Blancs and Pinotage.

Villiera
http://www.villiera.com/
Located in Stellenbosch. Sparkling cap classique white and rose wines served in an open air courtyard shaded by very old trees hanging with moss. Watch out for the birds nesting above you!

How Do I Choose a Tokyo Hotel?

2010-09-15T19:36:00.006-05:00

For travelers to Tokyo, the number of hotels, price ranges and choices can be more than overwhelming. There are global chains, high-quality Japanese chains, tourist hotels, business hotels, sleep hotels, onsen, bed and breakfasts -- enough options to make your head swim. I've been lucky to stay in an number of different hotels in Tokyo and am always happy to help clients find their best fit, but I thought it would still be helpful to give a quick overview of hotels for people who are trying to figure out where to start.

I will try to get through all of the hotels eventually, but first, I summarize below the Tokyo Virtuoso hotels where I've stayed.

Four Seasons Tokyo at Marunouchi
- The most conveniently located hotel for people coming in from Narita. You can hop on the Narita Express and be at Tokyo Station in about an hour, and this hotel is 50 steps from the Yaesu exit. The area around the hotel is very busy during the day and there are some areas about 3-5 blocks away where there are a number of events, but it is a cab ride away from most restaurants and shopping in Ginza, aside from that around Tokyo Station.
- I was greeted by name when I walked over from the station which was REALLY impressive since I hadn’t told them my ETA.
- This hotel has a small boutique feel – it is only 57 rooms and very quiet. Their slogan is 70 minutes, 60 rooms, and 50 steps.
- You enter the main door on the ground floor and then go up to the 7th floor to check-in. That floor is also where the spa, boutique, restaurant, fitness center, and business center are located. Rooms are actually on the six floors below the check-in area.
- There is one restaurant/bar called EKKI – I had daily breakfast in the restaurant which has lovely views overlooking Ginza and the food and service were excellent. There was a large gathering in the bar area after work each day – I assumed businessmen from the tower -- and ladies would sit in the plush lobby next to the fireplace overlooking the city for both tea and drinks. Their afternoon tea is very popular with innovative snacks and comfortable seating.

- My room overlooked the bullet train tracks with floor to ceiling windows, but there was no noise and the draperies blocked out the light.
- Of all the hotels I’ve stayed in Tokyo, this hotel feels the most warm and homey. They did an excellent job combining light and dark woods and plush fabrics in greys, purples, and browns to make an inviting room. Sony TVs are flat screens mounted on a wooden panel. There is a nice chaise lounge and large desk and the room is very technologically up-to-date without being overwhelming. Switches by the bed control draperies and lights as well as temperature.

- The bathroom was of limestone and travertine with two separate glassed-in cubbies for stool and shower with a large soaking sub in between. The shower was very large. There was one sink with L’Occitane products. Floors and towel racks were heated. The TV and radio sound were piped into the bathroom which was a nice touch. Closet space was ample with drawers and hanging areas, but it was not a walk-in closet.
- The fitness center is quite large and is reached from the changing rooms. The spa and changing rooms themselves were quite small – but a lot of space is likely not needed due to the small number of rooms. I counted about 15-20 small lockers, 2-3 showers, a cold shower, and a soaking tub all in slate tiles and green lighting. This area is open until 10pm which is great for jet-lag.
- The spa waiting area is small – a couch and two chairs – and there are only two treatment rooms. I’m not sure if it ever gets busy, but it could be crowded if it does. My treatment was very nice – a facial with Kenzoki products and the treatment room was tiled, with wood accents.

The Peninsula Tokyo
- This hotel is about a 5-7 minute cab ride away from Tokyo Station so still very convenient. It is located in the heart of Ginza at the southeast corner of the Imperial Palace park with a large turnaround and good views up the street.
- This glitzy hotel is the only one I stayed at that is its own stand-alone building. All other hotels are incorporated into another office building. It is within walking distance of a number of excellent shops and restaurants.
- The ivory marble lobby is three stories tall with a large chandelier. It houses a restaurant and tea area and is buzzing at all times of the day. People are constantly watching to see who is coming in next, and the valets are kept hopping. Valets and front desk staff were very helpful and not at all rushed despite the crowd of people.

- My room was the most manly, gadget-oriented, “business-y” room I stayed in. If you want everything operated by a button, a huge TV, large spin-around in closet with dressing area, and fancy marble bathroom with television, this is the hotel for – frankly, probably – him. I was surprised I couldn’t order my breakfast via touchpad.
- For business people, the television is setup to handle any sort of cord so you can actually display presentations from your room which could be a nice touch – there was also a fax machine and scanner included in the cabinet.

- The bathroom was all ivory marble with two sinks on either side, a separate corner shower with bench, and a large soaking tub in the middle of the room with overflow spout and a panel to control the television, radio, and a number of mood settings for the lights. In fact, the entire room had mood settings, humidity settings, drapery settings, etc.
- The restaurant at the top of the building used to have a lot of buzz, but frankly seems a bit outdated with its purple iridescent décor. It felt like my Prom. The bar was extremely busy and people were waiting to sit next to the windows and take in the great views. I had a drink and salmon appetizer that were quite good.
- The spa and fitness area win awards on a regular basis. The pool has a terrace area where you can sit outside and have tea, breakfast, etc. and the fitness center is right above it. The changing area is very large and spacious, as you would expect in an upscale gym or day spa.
- The spa itself feels very large. The waiting area overlooks the pool and has two sides with large benches and no place to have tea or water. However, once you are taken back, there is a nice dimly lit relaxation area with headphones, reading materials, heated chairs with down comforters and a lot of juice, water and little snacks. The chairs recline into different positions and there are privacy screens between them. There is also a small area with hot and cold showers, aromatherapy showers, a steam room and an ice shower.

Mandarin Oriental Tokyo
- It is located in Nihonbashi which is the financial center of Tokyo – a number of major banks and trading companies are within a few steps of the door. There are also some good restaurants and shopping centers. However, it is not as hopping as Ginza or Shinjuku for those who want to head out on the town.
- The hotel is about a 10-15 cab ride from Tokyo Station or a 25-30 minute walk. I took the walk and it isn’t bad. They also offer pickup at the station for people who are worried about finding the cab stand.
- Like Four Seasons, you enter on the ground floor though a private valeted entrance and take the elevators up to check in. The difference is that instead of going up 7 floors, you go up 38 floors. When you exit the elevator, the main two story atrium that houses the lobby has views of Mount Fuji and the sea.

- Throughout the building, every textile, wall painting, piece of furniture, art has been carefully selected to evoke an element of Japanese nature through wood or water. It lends a very peaceful quality to a very busy hotel. The fabrics in my room were plush and warm and it was all very inviting.
- My room had living orchids and a basket of clementines and overlooked the east side of the city. The view at night was lovely.
- The bathroom was an interesting open design – the toilet had its own area, but the rest of it was open, even the shower, which was just tucked into a corner near the soaking tub. It had a large bench which was great. My only gripe is that the showerhead was so tall I couldn’t adjust it. The soaking tub had its own small flatscreen television.

- The restaurants in this hotel are worth a visit – Tapas molecular gastronomy was a great intimate evening – 25 small courses with only eight people at a seating. And I felt the pricing was very comparable to US prices which is unusual in Japan. The chef is American and does a great job explaining all the courses, which made for a nice home away from home dinner.
- In general, this place was much more ‘hopping’ in the evening than the first two hotels.
- Breakfast was buffet style in a beautiful room overlooking the city – the food was excellent.
- This was the only hotel where I had to pay for internet access which was a bit painful after it being free everywhere else.
- The spa to end all spas is in this hotel. The inner spaces are dimly lit and warm, while the treatment areas (including the soaking pools!) have floor to ceiling windows overlooking the city, even the sauna has a view. It is one of the most beautiful spa settings I have seen and a must-do for anybody visiting Tokyo.

Four Seasons Tokyo at Marunouchi
http://www.fourseasons.com/marunouchi/

The Peninsula Tokyo
http://www.peninsula.com/Tokyo/en/default.aspx

Mandarin Oriental Tokyo
http://www.mandarinoriental.com/tokyo/

Japanese Spa Resort - Hoshinoya Karuizawa

2010-09-10T23:23:00.007-05:00

I traveled to Hoshinoya Karuizawa on my trip to Japan earlier this year and stayed for two nights in a Riverside Villa. This resort is 4th-generation owned and a hotel has been on the site since 1914. Royal families, authors, and celebrities have all visited the resort. The original owner was a brilliant hydroelectric engineer who diverted part of the local river and built a plant on-site which still generates a large portion of the resort’s power. It is part of the company’s mission statement to conserve nature as well as provide their guests with changing expressions of nature and the seasons during each time of year.

Karuizawa is a famous place for vacation homes in Japan. It is just over one hour from Tokyo Station by bullet train (Asama line) and is known for its mild climate and nature, especially in the stifling Tokyo summers. The city was started by a British missionary named Alexander Shaw who loved the area because of its similarity to UK weather. As more people have started to come to Japan for vacations, especially from South East Asia and China, the area has gotten very popular for resorts, fine dining, and weddings. Hoshinoya has taken the luxury resort concept in the area a step further. They want to be the perfect ryokan, that is, the perfect combination of cuisine, service, onsen, and environment all while keeping the key elements of Japanese culture.

Rooms
At first glance, the rooms are going to seem very pricey. Japan is already expensive, and Hoshinoya Karuizawa is at the pinnacle of spa resorts in the country. But a few notes: Japanese are accustomed to traveling together as groups and families, and for that reason, Hoshinoya allows up to 5 guests in one room and have no qualms about setting up extra futons and beds in the available spaces. This can be a good cost-saving strategy for people traveling together. In addition, breakfast in the restaurant is included in the rates with only a surcharge for room service. Another tip is to travel during the week and also not on Japanese holiday weekends when the prices can be double that of off-peak times.

Rooms have a simple but rich décor – dark polished woods under the futons and living areas, dark gray slate bathrooms, and greens and browns on the walls, both traditional and western sitting areas are available. The bathrooms are a highlight with cypress tubs with overflow faucets and tiled shower areas with views out over the resort through wooden louvered blinds. Beds are traditional futons with buckwheat pillows. Bedding is down. The living areas have balconies or terraces and some have seating areas outside. There is no air-conditioning – there are cathedral ceilings in each room with vented windows that can be opened by lever to allow mountain air into the room. The rooms have luscious heated floors. 70% of the energy used is generated on site through hydroelectric and thermodynamic sources. Hot springs run under the villas and provide heat.

When you arrive, there is a brief welcome ceremony with music and a drink. At that point, you choose the clothing you would like to wear during your stay. There are two different options but both are very comfortable. You don’t have to wear the clothing if you don’t want to, but who wouldn’t want to walk around in pajama-like gear all day long? One note – in the winter, the clothing is a bit thin, so bring some leggings or long underwear to put on underneath.

Activities
Their spa won a Spafinder award last year. While it is only 5 years old, it was built on an ancient ryokan site. They provide traditional treatments and acupuncture in private bungalows overlooking the water. The bungalows have decks outside where you can take tea, sake, and enjoy the view. They are all setup for couples which would make for a really nice experience.

There is a gorgeous gift shop that features local sake and beer (they will send to your Tokyo hotel before you depart or you can pay to ship to US), local pottery, sets of dishes and sake cups. There is also a library that has wireless and snacks setup throughout the day.

Two onsens serve guests on the property. There is a more traditional onsen at the bottom of the resort that is also open to the community part of the day. Within the resort proper is a very modern onsen with contemporary décor, night and day soaking areas, and a cozy relaxation lounge. The contemporary onsen is open 24 hours a day, which is great for people with jet-lag who need a roasty toasty soak to help them fall asleep.

We spent a nice morning on a nature hike near the active volcano capped off with tea and biscuits. There are many different animals in the area and it is also an excellent bird-watching destination. We tracked wild boar, monkeys, and bears.

Harunire Terrace – this is a shopping and restaurants area created to allow guests another way to spend time as well as other food options. Within the next few months, they hope to tie the payment systems at the shopping area to rooms so you can have a cashless-experience.

Other activities include stargazing and skiing.

Meals
Kasuke restaurant features traditional 10-course Japanese gourmet dining, but a la carte options are also available for those with smaller appetites. There is a bar/lunch area down by the public onsen that features more standard Japanese fare such as soba.

There is a sister property in Karuizawa town with a well-known French restaurant, and the resort will provide shuttle service over there at no charge. Speaking of which, Karuizawa town is filled with French and Italian restaurants, being those cuisines are some of the favorites of the well-heeled folks who vacation in the area. If you are there in the winter, though, most will be shuttered so the resort itself is your primary option.

Hoshinoya Karuizawa
Hoshino, Karuizawa-machi,
Nagano 389-0194, Japan
Tel : +81-267-45-6000
Fax: +81-267-45-6990

http://www.hoshinoya.com/en/

Wine Touring in Walla Walla

2010-08-30T00:57:00.015-05:00

Last weekend, I finally got to Walla Walla, Washington for wine tasting. It has been on my list forever, and I was pleasantly surprised with what I found on my trip. Even though many consider it an 'up-and-coming' wine destination, it is much more developed than I expected and is almost ready for prime time. Here are a few quick tips to make the most of your stay.

There are four main areas for tasting in Walla Walla, and with over 100 wineries it would be very easy for die-hard wine fans to spend an entire week there. The good news is that most places are open on Sunday, so a visitor can still gain a good overview of the area with a long weekend. I drove over on a Saturday morning and left Sunday afternoon - one more day would have been perfect for a first visit.

The four main areas and favorite wineries visited on this trip are as follows:

West - the wine tasting rooms on west side of town are in larger buildings and have larger areas to spread out in. There aren't a lot of actual grapes being grown here, and the wineries feel very much more established than other areas in the valley. A lot of the wine found here is distributed to other states, but it is still possible to find some gems that aren't readily available. Glencorrie is a relatively new vineyard that only makes reds, and they are mighty-fine reds. I snapped up some 06 Columbia Valley and 07 Walla Walla bottles of Cabernet Sauvignon that I can't wait to open at home. Another highlight of this area is Reininger, a winery that is better-known in the Western US than in other areas, but has been winning awards for a long time. They offer a very comprehensive tasting across their main label and sister label, Helix, which is made from Columbia Valley grapes. I selected their rose, a Helix Sangiovese and a cabernet from each label to take with me.

South - in the south, you are going to find wineries nestled in fields of vines and great views of the mountains. This area makes you feel much more like you are in wine country. Northstar is worth a visit for their views and also the fact that they are one of the few tasting rooms that actually has food (see more about that under "Food"). They offer a selection of meats and cheeses in a cooler as well as catered brunch on the weekends. They are a sister company to Chateau Ste. Michelle and are known for their merlots which are widely distributed. Va Piano (left) was our favorite in this area - the cute building looks like it was plucked out of Italy and dropped in the middle of the vineyard. I took a bottle of their Bruno's Blend, named after a priest in Italy who supplies the bottle art.

Downtown - the downtown area has a number of small tasting rooms setup within walking distance of each other. This is the most convenient method of touring as you can quickly visit more than ten tasting rooms in a day. Most of these wineries have smaller productions and a tasting fee of $5 typically covers tasting 3-6 different types of wine. Highlights of this area were Fort Walla Walla, one of the older wineries in the area with a knowledgeable host and good reds, and Sleight of Hand (yes, named after the Pearl Jam song), which has whimsical magic-themed wine with super-cool art, a quirky and personable host and an amazing vinyl collection spinning on a turntable. We picked up their fun gewurtztraminer blend, The Magician, and a bottle of Bordeaux blend, Archimage.

Airport - the airport area is a number of small, identical single-story buildings set on flat lots without very many trees. Many of these wineries are storing and blending their wine on property and, because of this, the area feels more operational than built for tourists. However, I really like being in the heart of the works and overall this area feels more down-to-earth.

Tasting tours in Walla Walla have not yet reached the point of other wine valleys in the US. There are 2-3 main companies that come recommended, but -- as far as I could tell from asking a lot of questions at different wineries and the tourist center -- there is still not a company that specializes in 'behind the scenes' or private access to wineries without public tasting rooms. This is sure to come in the next few years. One thing to note is that it is against the law for Washington tasting rooms to serve anyone who is intoxicated. So even if you have a driver, moderation is the name of the game.

Food
Aside from Northstar, wineries don't offer food, so if you plan to picnic during your tour, bring your own. Many of the wineries on the west and south side of town have areas where visitors can sit and enjoy their lunches. My first wish for the area is that more wineries open deli areas or that more restaurants/cafes are strategically placed outside downtown so people can stop and refuel during the day.

From a restaurant standpoint, PhoSho was a great lunch stop with friendly staff and a simple but comfortable room with high ceilings and historic photos. We enjoyed organic beef brisket pho and a pork bun salad with egg rolls. Wine and beer selections are also good here.

Saffron Mediterranean almost made the grade for dinner. The dim candlelit room has distressed concrete walls and warm wooden benches with Mediterranean touches. Service was stretched a little thin, but friendly. Our opener of skordalia with bread was yummy, but the entrees both needed a little tweak in order to be excellent. The pheasant with couscous and Walla Walla onions was done perfectly, but the couscous had been swapped out for quinoa (or the fattest couscous ever), which my dining partner didn't like. My gnocchi with pattypan squash and pancetta had really good elements. The gnocchi were prepared perfectly, light and airy, and the presentation was a lovely mix of colors, but the saucier had been a bit too liberal with the white wine which gave the sauce a really strong acidic taste that overpowered the delicate pasta. With 2-3 small changes, it would have been an excellent experience.

Brasserie Four was excellent for Sunday brunch. I had a chinook salmon and new potato quiche and sea-salted fries with homemade mayonnaise. The sidewalk seating was a treat on a sunny late August morning. I was also impressed with their wine and beer selection.

Lodging

There are a lot of lodging options in the area - Abeja Inn and Winery and Fat Duck Inn came highly recommended but were booked; they are also pet-friendly. In fact, a number of local inns have pet-friendly options as long as you don't leave the pet alone in the room. This might be an issue during hot summers, but it was cool enough when I was there that the dog was fine in the car with the windows open. Most of the tasting rooms also allow dogs inside if they are well-behaved.

The Marcus Whitman is conveniently located in the center of town and is a well-known historic hotel, but I didn't stay there because their pet fee is an incredible $150. Yikes. We made do with Comfort Inn, which was close to the west side of town and was fine for our purposes, but not especially scenic. My second wish for the area would be an intimate, full-service inn with a high-class restaurant - similar to a Willows Lodge in Woodinville.

Helpful links:

Walla Walla - http://www.wallawalla.org/ (stop by the tourist center on Main St. as well)

PhoSho - http://www.phoshowallawalla.com/

Saffron - http://www.saffronmediterraneankitchen.com/

Brasserie Four - no webpage, but they are on Facebook

Glencorrie - http://www.glencorrie.com/

Rheininger - http://reiningerwinery.com/

Sleight of Hand - http://www.sofhcellars.com/sofhcellars/index.jsp

Fort Walla Walla Cellars - http://www.fortwallawallacellars.com/

Northstar - http://www.northstarwinery.com/

Va Piano - http://www.vapianovineyards.com/

A Guest Blog on Laos -- Activities and Customs

2010-08-27T19:57:00.014-05:00

In the final installment of his guest entries, Ara shares some recommended dos and don'ts in Laos.

Bad things to do in Lao
- Talk loudly
- Point with your feet
- Touch your feet
- Touch a monk
- Touch a persons head
- Dress in messy attire
- Public displays of affection

Activities

Laos is full of things to do. You can plan in advance, or the main tourist areas are filled with travel agencies and other people who are more than happy to set up boat rides, elephant trips, and journeys to scenic sights around the towns.

Eco-tourism is really taking off in Laos and there are some really good tour companies that are offering jungle treks and home stays lasting from several days to a week. These trips are not only good for sight seeing, they also provide employment and income to Laotian people who would otherwise be doing subsistence farming or growing opium. If you are going to do one of these options, make sure you do your research and pick an option that benefits the Lao people!

I love to see how local people live so going to the food markets are always the highpoint of my trip. I can spend hours running around and looking at the day to day lives of people. Every town has a market that is filled with interesting things to see and eat. If you go to Luang Prabang, there are a couple of places that offer cooking classes. When I went with my mom, I did one of these and it was her favorite part of the trip. For about twenty dollars you take a class that lasts most of the day and learn to cook five or six Lao dishes that you also get to eat, of course! Another plus is that you usually get to go to the central market to pick out your ingredients, so you get an English-speaking guided tour of the market!

Lao has many gifts and things to buy, but remember, even though things are cheap, you are expected to bargain. Lao silks are wonderful and very cheap. Silver is everywhere, along with old coins and bills from the pre-communist era. Real opium pipes can be found but are getting scarcer and scarcer every year, you will have to hunt for good ones. In LP, there are some very nice, cheap, boutique jewelry shops that have some nice pieces with precious and semi precious stones. You can also find some very nice antiques, some are highly prized and beautiful works of art, however if you buy things like this remember that you are taking the cultural heritage of the Lao people home with you and they will never get it back.

If you go upstairs in the main market in Vientiane you can find many stalls selling silver coins and precious stones at knock down prices. Haggling is a very good idea. Out behind the market are silver and gold smiths who melt down and make new jewelry. As a note my wife and I bought some colonial era coins here and had them made into our wedding rings.

Remember that there is a brisk trade in ivory and other animal products. You can find tiger skins and the like in Lao but please, do not buy them, they only lead to the destruction of the natural order of Lao in the long run.

The biggest draw in LP is the temples, also called wats, and the morning alms procession. There are over thirty temples in LP and most of the time it is perfectly all right to go in and look around, they are stunning examples of Buddhist architecture and life. The morning alms ceremony starts very early in the morning as all the monks of the city take their begging bowls out and go around the city collecting food for the day, it is not something to be missed.

A few more practical tips

-- Lao closes down early - Most shops/places to eat/markets close down by ten or so. The country does have a curfew so there really is not a lot to do late at night, actually there is nothing to do late at night outside of LP and Vientiane and even there, only a few clubs and the bowling alley are open after midnight.

-- Transportation takes a long time in Laos. A lot of roads are newly paved but there are a lot of mountains to go over. The bus ride from LP to Vientiane is about ten hours and is less than two hundred miles.

-- Lao people call their country Lao, not Laos. Laos is a French invention that refers to the grouping of the Lao tribes. When you say the word Laos, do not sound out the s.

-- The Hmong people were heavily persecuted in Laos following the withdrawal of American forces after the secret war for allying themselves with America. Most women in the market are Hmong and you can tell them apart by their very distinctive dress. Support them and buy from them if you can.

-- Laos is still a communist state, it will not cause you any problems but do be aware of it. Drugs, especially opium and marijuana, are everywhere in Laos but if you choice to indulge, remember it is not only illegal but also perpetuates a vicious cycle. Also keep in mind that Lao police love to fine tourists, and will not issue you a receipt. Lao prisons are known to be some of the worst in the world and are full of westerners who have tried, and failed, to smuggle out heroin and opium.

-- Dress neatly and modestly when you go to a temple (wat). The biggest tourist draw in LP. is the morning alms gathering by the monks. Pictures are ok, but do not get in the monks faces and make an ass of yourself. Stay a respectable distance away, and respect something that is very special and sacred to the Lao people.

-- Americans were very bad in Laos during the secret war, there is no doubt about it. Lao people are incredible generous and forgiving so it will probably not cause you any problems but if you do see someone with a missing limb it was probably lost because of UXO’s (unexploded ordinance), that was dropped by American planes, keep that in mind.

-- Laos is the most heavily bombed country on the planet. During the secret war America dropped more bombs on Laos than on Germany and Japan combined during World War II. A consequence of this is that there are UXO’s everywhere. Be very aware of signs that prohibit entrance or warn of mines, especially around the Plain of Jars. Every year many Lao people are killed or maimed by the leftovers of an undeclared war.

That all being said, Laos is an incredible country, out of all the countries that I have been to, it is my favorite. Not only is it stunningly beautiful, the people are, by far, the most generous and kind people on the planet. It is always amazing to me that the poorest people in the world seem to be the happiest, by Lao takes this to an extreme. It is truly a wonderful place. Even though it can be tough to get to, it is well worth the reward. The time to go to Laos, is now, this year. Last year, it was the top country on the list of the New York Times places to see of 2008 and this year will be no different as the crowds will keep getting bigger as more and more people discover Laos. If you are going anywhere in South East Asia this year, go to one of the last undiscovered, unspoiled places left in Asia. Go now, because in five years it will all be gone.

Photo descriptions:
Photo 1: Lao silks, night market, Luang Prabang
Photo 2: Wat on the grounds of the Lao Royal Palace, Luang Prabang
Photo 3: Morning alms ceremony, Luang Prabang
Photo 4: Lao children, on the road between Vieng Vang and Vientiane

All photos copyright by Ara Gallo.

About the Author: Ara Gallo lived all over the world before settling in Asia for the past five years. After graduating from Bemidji State University in 2003 with a double degree in History and Education, he moved to South Korea to work for the Ministry of Education in the public school system. Using the immense amount of vacation provided by his job he has had the oppurtunity to travel all over southeast Asia. In 2010, he plans to visit Sri Lanka and Cambodia, and will move to Myanmar later in the year.

*Note from Alyssa: As Ara mentioned, Laos is one of the hot destinations in South East Asia and still represents a good value to the traveler. There are a number of tours and activities I can assist with, or use Ara's recommendations for your trip. Put Laos on your list as a must-see destination sooner rather than later.

A Guest Blog on Laos -- Food and Lodging

2010-08-27T19:32:00.011-05:00

My guest blogger, Ara Gallo, continues with an overview of food and lodging options in Laos, one of the hot destinations in South East Asia. Enjoy!

Food

Now that your travel is out of the way, let’s talk about the good stuff, food. Lao food, to put it simply, is amazing, and the beer is even better.

As in the rest of Asia, Lao uses rice as a staple food, in this case sticky rice. It is served at every meal and comes in a little basket with a lid (great gifts by the way). As in most of Asia, Lao people use chopsticks, but like Korea, a spoon is used for soup and rice. It is acceptable to eat with your hands, and most people do eat with them.

Traditional Lao cuisine usually consists of meat, rice, and vegetables and fish. Lao cuisine is not overly hot but does use a lot of spices, like lemon grass, shallots, coriander, galangal, mint, dill, garlic, and lime. If you know Thai and Vietnamese food, you get the general idea.

Some typical Lao dishes-
-- Laap - Served everywhere, a salad made of minced meats, and greens, sometimes raw.
-- Sauces - Lao cuisine uses a lot of dips and sauces. As in most South East Asian countries, fermented fish sauce is in everything, and on every table. Eggplant is used in a lot of dips.
-- Tam Mak Hoong - Very spicy green papaya salad
-- Water Buffalo Sausage
-- River Moss
-- Pho - The popular noodle dish is everywhere in South East Asia, in Lao it becomes an art form. Picture a bowl of thick rice noodles in a broth with pork on top. On the table are a plate of cut limes, about twenty different sauces, and various other things that you can add at will to your soup. Paired with a bottle of Beer Lao it usually costs about a dollar.
-- Baguettes - French colonialism is still apparent in Lao as lovely soft baguettes are everywhere. Baguette sandwiches are the traveler’s friend and come topped with wonderful fresh veggies, an egg, and either chicken or Lao pate.
-- Grilled food - Laotians love to grill their meat, street vendors abound with grilled chicken skin, water buffalo sausage, frogs, and just about anything you can imagine.

As far as drinks go, Lao coffee is some of the best in the world, usually mixed with condensed milk (another excellent gift). Beer Lao is known by those of us in Asia is the best beer on the continent. Lao whiskey is incredibly potent, and soft drinks/bottled water are everywhere.

As far as places to eat, I am a street food person, I really cannot think of any time that I have eaten in a restaurant in Laos. Mostly I grab food from the local markets, I just look around and grab something that looks good, I am also cheap so this is really up my alley. Noodle shops are everywhere, and most places in the markets will have a few stools and tables where you can eat.

In LP, there is a great little alley with all kinds of good food just south of the night market and across from the main market. In Vientiane, there are some great places to eat outside along the Mekong where you can enjoy mammoth fresh water prawns while watching the sunset. The main market in Vientiane also has some great food and there is an awesome crepe man who wheels a cart along the Mekong dispensing his goodness in chocolate or banana.

Even though I don’t really go to restaurants in Laos I have been recommended one that I will be trying. The Three Nagas in LP is supposed to have some of the best traditional Lao food on the planet and always seems very crowded. If you want a restaurant recommendation for Lao this is it.

As far as non-Lao food, although God knows why you would want it, there are Indian, Thai, and Vietnamese restaurants scattered around in Vientiane but if you are desperate for fast food or anything you are out of luck, there are no McD’s in the entire country. Outside of LP and Vientiane there really isn’t much.

Pricewise, Laos is dirt cheap for food. If you are like me you can eat for about five or ten dollars a day, remember, Laos is one of the poorest countries in Asia and most people here get by on much less than a dollar a day.

Lodging

After you have eaten your fill, you gotta have a place to stay. Well, how much do you want to spend? You can get a room on an island in a hut in the Mekong Delta for about a dollar down by Paske, up north, at the Plain of Jars, or on the Chinese border you can find a simple hut for about two to four dollars. In the opium towns of the north east rooms are about three dollars. Keeping this in mind, these kinds of rooms are not going to have a lot of amenities. There may be a fan, if you are lucky, but there will be no air conditioning or T.V.

On the other side of the coin, there are some resorts in LP that will charge you around a hundred dollars or more a night and be as nice, or nicer, than any boutique hotel on the Riviera. When I stay in LP, I usually stay in the Sensouk Guest House, an old French house with teak floors and wide balconies overlooking the street for about thirty dollars a night. There are cheaper places to stay, but I really like this one. The only bad thing is that it is right across from a wat (temple) and the gong goes off at about four in the morning.

Some nice guest houses in LP to try:
Sensouk Guest House
Symoung Koun Guest House
Mounglao Guest House
Moung Lao Riverside
Mano Guest House
Say Samone Guest House

Keep in mind that most regular guest houses in Laos do not really have internet addresses and booking in advance can be difficult but not impossible. I like to use the internet to hopefully find contact information. If you just show up in LP most times of the year you will not have a problem finding a place to stay.

Photo descriptions:
Photo 1: Pho, all the glories that come with it, and Beer Lao
Photo 2: Bowl of pho and Beer Lao
Photo 3: The balcony, Sensouk Guest House, Luang Prabang

All photos copyright by Ara Gallo.

About the Author: Ara Gallo lived all over the world before settling in Asia for the past five years. After graduating from Bemidji State University in 2003 with a double degree in History and Education, he moved to South Korea to work for the Ministry of Education in the public school system. Using the immense amount of vacation provided by his job he has had the oppurtunity to travel all over southeast Asia. In 2010, he plans to visit Sri Lanka and Cambodia, and will move to Myanmar later in the year.

A Guest Blog on Laos -- Getting There

2010-08-27T17:22:00.000-05:00

I am thrilled to have some guest bloggers coming up over the next few weeks and months. These bloggers will feature some parts of the world that are lesser known and of which they have intimate knowledge. I hope you will enjoy their information as much as I have enjoyed receiving and reading it.

My first guest is Ara Gallo, a friend of mine since elementary school. He has lived in Asia for the last five years and Laos is his favorite country to visit. Enjoy the next few articles with his invaluable insights.

Laos - Getting There

The first little bit of information about Laos that you must know is that it can be a pain in the ass to actually get there. There are no direct flights to either the capitol, Vientiane, or the main tourist center of Luang Prabang (LP) from anywhere outside of south east Asia. That being said, the first place you need to get to is Bangkok, it is the cheapest and most convenient, you can also fly into Laos from Cambodia, Vietnam, and a few places in China but Bangkok gives you by far the most, and quickest options.

From Bangkok you have a few ways to get to the "Land of a Million Elephants". If you have a lot of time you can go up north to Chang Mai and then take a boat down the Mekong to LP, but that takes five days. Other options include taking an overnight train or bus from Bangkok to Udon Thani, right across the border from Vientiane and then going across the Freedom Bridge through Lao immigration.

If your time is limited, the best option is to fly. The two main international airports in Laos are at Vientiane and LP. Both have service to Bangkok and also Hanoi, Kumming (China), and Ho Chi Minh City. There is also a new international airport in Paske in the south that has some flights from Cambodia and possibly Bangkok, although this is not confirmed as of now.
The Lao national airline, Laos Aviation, used to have a horrific safety record, but as a fairly regular user I can say that flight crews and aircraft have been greatly improved, especially on international routes. They serve great cold food, amazing as most flights are very short, and excellent Beer Lao is complimentary on all flights. Be aware that you will be flying turboprops, however. Lao Aviation has flights to and from Thailand, China, Vietnam, and occasionally Cambodia. I have heard rumors that they are going to be leasing some Airbus jets soon as well to fly on the international routes.

Other airlines that fly to and from Laos are Thai, Bangkok Airways, Air Asia, and Air China. The absolute cheapest way to get to Vientiane is on Air Asia from Bangkok. A one way ticket from Bangkok to Udon Thani is only about 40$ U.S. and then a quick bus ride across the border and you are safely in Laos.

Visas are on arrival at all international airports and some land crossings, for sure at the Freedom Bridge going to Vientiane. The cost is 35$ U.S. (subject to change) and is payable in Thai Baht, US dollars, and Euros on occasion. The visas are good for thirty days for U.S. travelers and are able to be extended.

Useful Websites
Air Asia - www.airasia.com
Bangkok Airways - www.bangkokair.com
Thai Airways - www.thaiair.com
Lao Aviation - www.laoairlines.com (Can be viewed in IE or Firefox, but must use IE to buy tickets)

Photo descriptions:
Photo 1: Trainee monks, Vientiane
Photo 2: Buddhist statues, Park Oh cave, Mekong River

All photos copyright by Ara Gallo.

About the Author: Ara Gallo lived all over the world before settling in Asia for the past five years. After graduating from Bemidji State University in 2003 with a double degree in History and Education, he moved to South Korea to work for the Ministry of Education in the public school system. Using the immense amount of vacation provided by his job he has had the oppurtunity to travel all over southeast Asia. In 2010, he plans to visit Sri Lanka and Cambodia, and will move to Myanmar later in the year.

Dog-Friendly Wilderness Resort (with the Comforts of Home)

2010-08-04T12:01:00.008-05:00

I’ll admit it, even with all the exciting travel I do, I hate leaving my dog at home. I would much rather put Reyna in the back seat and drive 2000 miles than put her in a boarding kennel and fly three hours by myself. I like that pace of travel, the travel goes more quickly with a companion, and the potty breaks force me to slow down and see more along the way. In her four years, Reyna has already been in two countries, seven states, four provinces, and I lost count at 20 hotels.

Some hotel chains, and some nicer hotel chains especially, are very progressive with their dog policies and do a good job accommodating dogs and their owners without relegating them to the smoking floor or the most outdated rooms. Fairmont Hotels and Kimpton Hotels are good examples of companies that realize the value of allowing people and their pets to travel to their properties. But, let’s face it, that experience is still staying in a hotel, albeit a nice one. It is hard to find places that offer unique, signature travel experiences and are still dog-friendly.

The Resort at Paws Up is one of the exceptions to the rule. Located about 30 minutes from Missoula, Montana, the property consists of stand-alone homes with full bathrooms, fireplaces, satellite, laundry facilities, hot tubs on large backyard decks and kitchen appliances. Larger homes have full kitchens, grills, and spa tubs. Dog-friendly amenities include over-stuffed pillows, dog dishes, treats, as well as fenced in outdoor kennels where the dogs can spend time.

I went to the resort in April of this year for their Wine and Bitch weekend which featured gourmet dinners, wine tastings and a series of dog-friendly activities over three days. We stayed in a Lodgepole Pine home with two bedrooms, one bath with heated slate floors and oversized shower, and cozy sitting area. The food was creatively prepared with local ingredients and the tasting menus were a highlight of the stay. The bartenders made us wonderful cocktails and we sat outside by the bonfire until the wee hours, taking in the Montana starry skies. We did some walking as well as horseback riding in addition to the dog activities. It was one of the highlights of the year so far and we are already scanning our calendar for an opening when we can return.

Other activities (not all dog-friendly) at the resort include spa services, horseback riding, fly fishing, cattle drives, water sports and more. There is also a comprehensive Kids’ Camp including a baby animals area and daily programmed activities with lunch. Their Montana Master Chefs’ Weekend is coming up in September and offers an all-inclusive food and wine event with top chefs from around the country offering cooking demonstrations and tasting menus with wine pairings in addition to activities.

Rates include meals and other specials and packages are available. Additional amenities available by booking with a Virtuoso agent include a $150 activities credit.

The Resort at Paws Up
40060 Paws Up Road
Greenough MT 59823
www.pawsup.com

Northern California and Southern Oregon Coast

2010-07-21T16:41:00.000-05:00

I spent a week in August 2009 driving up the California/Oregon coast with my family. We started in Redding, drove to Eureka, California, and overnighted there at Carter House Inn. We then drove up the coast and stayed in Gold Beach, Coos Bay, and Yachats before heading up to Portland for the weekend. This is just a quick rundown of thoughts and recommendations – feel free to email me directly if you have any specific questions!

Highlights:

The 3+ drive from Redding to Eureka, while beautiful, was for an intrepid driver. I was very glad to be in the passenger seat and not behind the wheel. Much of the drive runs parallel to the Trinity River, a scenic, raft-friendly waterway that looked very appetizing on a hot California day. But, despite the beauty, but there are very few straight patches, construction, and a lot of altitude changes. My stomach got a bit queasy towards the end.

We had a lovely stay at Carter House Inn in Eureka, California. The staff was extremely helpful (fetched my grandmother a coffee pot for the room when they found out she was an early-riser), quaint rooms with gas fireplaces, and great wines and dinner in both the lounge and the restaurant. Our room was on the corner of the building and had a nice sitting area and a four poster bed. The bathroom was a bit outdated, but clean. There is a private area off the lobby that can be reserved for wine tastings. Happy hour and breakfast are included in the rate. The inn is on far the end of downtown, so if you plan to walk to get there, wear comfortable shoes.
The drive up Hwy 101 through the redwoods and the Oregon coast scenery were breathtaking. We stopped off at a few places to take in the views, see the elk, and check out some hikes. Budget some extra time to make this trip.

An emotional visit to Ladybird Johnson Redwood Grove was so worth it. The grove is about a mile loop of easy walking through pristine redwood forests. I liked it better than Muir Woods – more quiet, less crowded and paths that cut through the forest. It was like being in a church of trees.

A great seafood dinner at Nor’Wester Restaurant in Gold Beach, OR. Charmingly snarky staff made this one of the highlights of our week.

Sitting outside on the waterfront for lunch in downtown Florence. Cute shops with local products and art, and a great view with Oregon beers and live music!

Sea Quest Inn in Yachats – a family-owned inn right on the ocean with a beautiful beach for combing, a lot of activities, and great breakfasts. It was like being in a cozy home.

Downtown Yachats – great big beach and good restaurants to choose from.

Lowlights:

Eureka, CA downtown was pretty quiet and the area around our inn was VERY quiet. A lovely place to stay, but kind of off by itself at the end of downtown. Great for a base and day trips, but not much around the inn itself.

No place of real quality to stay in Gold Beach, OR. We ended up at Inn of the Beachcomber that was more like a motel than an inn, and the only redeeming quality is that it was literally oceanfront. I would recommend staying at Tu Tu T’un Lodge, or going north of Gold Beach a bit farther to find something with character.

Spotty hours at quality eating establishments – it was hard to find good places that were open during the week, and this was high season! I guess a number of places have reduced hours due to the economy.

Some beaches were crowded and some weren't - not a lot of rhyme or reason, but if you find a quiet place you like (see below), stick around because the next one might be a zoo.

Quality places to stay along this route:

Carter House Inn – Eureka, CA

Requa Inn – Klamath, CA

Tu Tu T’un – Gold Beach, OR

Wildspring Guest Habitat – Port Orford, OR

Bandon Dunes – Bandon, OR

Heceta Head Lighthouse and B&B – Yachats, OR

Sea Quest Inn – Yachats, OR

Overleaf Lodge – Yachats, OR

Luxury Train Travel Then and Now

2010-07-21T14:20:00.012-05:00

My first train trip was over the holidays in 1981-82 when my family took the Amtrak train to visit relatives in Spokane, Washington (left). I recall getting on the train in Staples, Minnesota in about about -40 degrees F in the middle of the night and waking up the next morning in the middle of North Dakota where it was even colder, whiter, and flatter.

On the train, we had a family cabin for the four of us and I loved sitting at my little table, where I drew and watched the landscapes flash by. My dad took me to the observation car and bought me a mini-pizza, and we sat in the swivel chairs in front of the curved windows while I ate, swinging legs too short to touch the floor. Back then, the 'plumbing' went straight onto the tracks, there were linen tablecloths, and people were dressed up to travel. It seemed all too grand to a 7 year old -- especially when my mom woke me up the next morning to see the Rocky Mountains (!), something I had never seen before.

And so began a love affair with train travel.

I was that excited 7-year-old once again when I saw David Suchet (of Hercule Poirot fame) on PBS a few weeks ago. On the Masterpiece special, he took a ride on the current Venice-Simplon Orient-Express and revealed many of its secrets. The episode also did a great job of discussing the history of the train and its role in world history during the 20th century, as well as the resurgence of train travel in more recent times.

See the video here.

Many people may not realize it is possible to book the Orient-Express not only for the long, iconic journeys it's always been known for, but also for shorter trips, even to travel between two Europe cities, such as Paris and London, or Venice and Vienna. This option is a good fit for travelers who may not have the budget, but have always dreamed of experiencing the most luxurious train in the world. It's also a great way for honeymooners in Europe to amp up the luxury for a portion of their journey.

The company's website has a helpful planning tool that allows you to plug in two European cities and see the options between them.

But Europe is not the only place where travelers can experience luxury train travel. Since the Orient-Express was revitalized in the late 20th century, a number of companies in other countries have followed suit. Here are some examples:

Australia - the Platinum service on Great Southern Rail offers luxury cabins and meals with some of the most interesting train itineraries in the world. The Southern Spirit travels between Adelaide or Melbourne and Brisbane; The Indian Pacific travels east-west across Australia with an incredible journey between Sydney and Perth; and the famous train, The Ghan, makes a north-south journey between Darwin and Adelaide, including a stop in Alice Springs to tour the famous Outback.

South Africa - Rovos Rail uses antique refurbished carriages to make the trip between -- most often -- Cape Town (left) and Pretoria, but also has occasional trips to Durban, Victoria Falls, Namibia, and a trans-Africa fly/rail safari that goes all the way to Cairo. This company includes interesting stops and excursions as part of the itineraries so it is possible to see more of the country than just the rails.

Canada - the Rocky Mountaineer has been named by some as the best train experience in the world. It travels between cities in British Columbia and Calgary, Alberta, including destinations in Banff and Jasper National Parks. It is also possible to connect to eastern destinations in Canada to make a trip across the entire continent.

The United States will have an option of its own once again when the American Railway Explorer opens for business next year. Routes focus on the American West and Southwest with one itinerary traveling across the country from Los Angeles to Niagara Falls or Washington D.C.

The Battle of Business Classes

2010-06-29T21:58:00.009-05:00

Due to timing issues, frequent flier issues, and the British Airways strike, I ended up flying three different airlines to and from Africa in May. I figured I should take advantage of this unusual circumstance to do a 'real-time' review of Delta, KLM, and Air France business classes.

I took the following routes:
- Delta business class round trip Minneapolis to London-Heathrow
- KLM business class one way London-Heathrow to Cape Town via Amsterdam
- Air France business class one way Johannesburg to London-Heathrow via Paris Charles de Gaulle

Looking at that list, I'm beginning to understanding why I was so tired when I got back from the World Cup! Below is a quick high-level overview of each in a few key categories.

Staff
Delta's staff was pretty gruff on the way to London and more friendly on the way back, but there were odd delays in the dinner service. KLM's purser came by and personally introduced herself to everyone in business class and asked us where we were from and the nature of our travel. It was a nice touch. During the dinner service, KLM's staff was a bit more serious. Air France's staff was extremely professional during boarding, but their dinner service was impeccably done - attentive, well-timed and friendly.
Winner: Air France by a whisker over KLM

Food and wine
Delta's food and wine didn't match the menu on the way to London and the food and wine were both disappointing. We ordered salmon and got a whitefish with grayish breading. If it was salmon, it was awfully overcooked. The Delta menus were correct on the way back, but the food was still not very good. The Michelle Bernstein featured chicken entree was dry and bland and made us start laughing it was so bad. KLM had an extremely inventive promotion running - menus were created by a Dutch chef who cooks at a famous restaurant in the South African winelands, and the wine list featured wine from countries playing in the World Cup (Argentina, Chile, US, France, Italy, etc.). KLM's food quality was fantastic - as close as it could be to a high-end restaurant with appropriate sized portions. Air France's menu choices and quantities were very good, but the wine was much better than the food.
Winner: KLM over Air France for inventiveness and quality

Seat comfort
Delta's lie-flat beds were nice to have, but my feet felt cramped and I couldn't easily turn over. Air France's seats were terribly firm and I couldn't get the seat positioned well. KLM's seats were wider and had a nice choice of personalized settings and positions in a cushy seat. I slept best on KLM. The tray tables on Delta are terribly difficult to figure out - even the staff had issues putting them away. The other two had seats that were more user-friendly.
Winner: KLM slightly over Delta

Bedding
Delta and KLM had the best comforters. Air France's blanket was thin, itchy wool and not very warm once you were at altitude. Air France's pillow was totally flat - I used my balled-up coat instead. Delta's and KLM's pillows were both nice and plump, but Delta's was down feathers which made me congested and KLM's wasn't. Winner: KLM over Delta

In-flight entertainment
The Delta IFE was broken on the way to London - we were given certificates for miles. The Delta headsets were difficult to sleep with as they squeaked when you laid on them. The KLM headsets were comfortable and easy to sleep with. The Air France headsets didn't block out as much noise as the other two. All three had good choices for movies - Air France had the best music choices.
Winner: KLM for headsets, tie for everything else

Value for money
The flights on KLM and Air France were $1000 less than Delta. Factor in the better food and wine and more pleasant staff and it's hard to justify the extra cost for Delta's lie-flat beds.
Winners: KLM and Air France

Ten Helpful Tips for Japan

2010-06-25T01:07:00.009-05:00

Below are ten tips to keep in mind when traveling to Japan, based on my past few visits to that wonderful country.

1) You’ve taken a long flight to Japan, gone through customs, and taken transportation into the city. You are probably hungry and looking for something to help keep you awake. If it’s between 2 and 5pm, stay at your hotel to eat. Most public eateries close in the afternoon and reopen for dinner. If you take the time to walk out and find something you will likely be disappointed and very tired.

2) All hotels in Japan supply yukata, or robes, but many hotels also supply very comfortable pajamas. If you fall in love with them, you can often buy them at the hotel gift shop or request to buy them from the concierge. One caveat – even large pajamas can be small for Americans. I’m 5’3” and sometimes end up wearing the men’s jammies.

3) An order of sake is not one glass. When you are traveling by yourself, ask specifically if you can try one glass of sake. Otherwise, you will get a small carafe of the stuff and stagger home with a big headache. Additional note – if you are female, order ‘osake’ instead: “osake onegaishimasu” – it is more appropriate.

4) Credit cards are not as readily accepted as you might think – even in Tokyo Station, I’ve had a very hard time using credit cards anywhere but restaurants. You will need cash or a prepaid Suica card to buy items at newsstands or from the food and beverage stewards on the trains. ATMs that work with US cards are not as easily found. Even my VISA and Mastercard do not work at the major ATMs in convenience stores, even with the right symbols on the machines. The only place they work is the post office, which is a more convenient place to access cash than the bank in many cases.

5) I’m not sure where the phrase ‘always wear nice underwear’ came from, but in Japan, that translates to ‘always wear nice socks’. Slip on shoes and nice socks are a must as you will often need to take off shoes and walk around in socks, even in public places. High heels are acceptable in larger cities, but even in Tokyo some traditional places will have you remove shoes so it is best to ask and have socks along with you.

6) Smoking is still pretty wide-spread in Japan and it is unusual to find places where the non-smoking areas don’t butt right up against the smoking areas. If you have bad allergies, be prepared with appropriate medications, or stick to more upscale establishments where they are more likely to have segregated seating. Other allergenic things that are widespread are down and caffeine. Most hotels will have other pillows available, but likely not comforters. Herbal tea is pronounced ‘ha-boo-tee’ and it can be hard to find. Water, alcohol, and juices are the only good bets if you are caffeine-sensitive.

7) Be prepared to be bumped and cut in front of. The exception to this is the reserved lines for the bullet train. At the airport, they call the flight and everyone moves en masse to the door.

8) As a rule, people will try to make you feel comfortable and shake your hand, but do try to bow anyway if you can fit it in to the greeting. I’ve found that it isn’t unusual in business situations to do both since each person is trying to make the other person comfortable. Don’t feel embarrassed. And another gesture tip, as a female, when kneeling on tatami mats, put your legs directly underneath you, not off to the side or skewed out. This is the proper way to sit and will gain you some respect for paying attention to detail.

9) If you are a single female and older than 25, not being married will be a topic of conversation and sometimes concern. If you want to stop the conversation, say you have ‘someone waiting for you at home’. (If you say you have a significant other and don’t qualify where he/she is, people can be even more concerned that he/she is not in Japan with you.)

10) If you are reading Romanized Japanese, do not pronounce the ‘u’ at the end of words. ‘Arigato gozaimasu’ is pronounced ‘ah-ree-gah-toe go-tsah-ee-mahs’.

Karuizawa and Atami - Two Japanese Resort Towns

2010-02-13T23:22:00.010-06:00

I was lucky on this trip to be able to visit two resort areas that a lot of tourists never get to see. Here are a few quick thoughts:

Atami

Atami is located on the east coast of Japan just south of Tokyo and is built into a series of hills overlooking the sea. The name literally means "hot ocean" (thank you, internets), which is a reference to the town's famous onsen hot springs, which have drawn visitors there since the 8th century, A.D. Those are some reliable hot springs.

After a tsunami destroyed the town in 1923, the current version of the town was incorporated in 1937 and was later proclaimed an "International Tourism and Culture City". Ever since that proclamation, and the addition of a connection to Tokyo via Shinkansen, the town has exploded. Unfortunately, this explosion has resulted in a huge number of really ugly concrete hotels being built into the lovely hillside, and the number of hotels vying for ‘the view’ has made the city itself look a bit overbuilt and unattractive. That isn’t to say that there aren’t nice places to be found - the plum and cherry trees were both blooming here in February and my ryokan had a good view - but the initial impression may be a bit disappointing for the average tourist who hears “ocean and beach”.

I really enjoyed the place I stayed in Atami and would love to return to that ryokan, but the city itself was not a big draw for me. When you do arrive there, taxi or pickup from your hotel is the way to go. The town has pretty narrow, winding roads that would be difficult to walk if you don't know exactly where you're going. Stick to smaller places to stay instead of the larger concrete hotels - the smaller places are likely to have better service, be closer to the good view, and have some additional gardens and trees on their property.

Karuizawa

Karuizawa is a popular resort spot – it is about an hour and 45 minutes north from Tokyo Station by Asama Shinkansen, which makes it easily accessible throughout the year. While Karuizawa is most known as a getaway for the wealthy in the humid summer months, it is increasingly popular as a destination during the other seasons for natural pursuits such as onsen, hiking, and bird watching. It is also becoming a hot wedding destination due to the temperate climate and large number of upscale wedding venues available for hire. There are strict rules about spacing between the houses so the area doesn't feel at all crowded.

Karuizawa hosted equestrian events in the 1964 Summer Olympics. The town also hosted curling in the 1998 Winter Olympics. To date, it is the only city in the world having hosted both Summer and Winter Olympic events (a little trivia to put in your back pocket). There is a little curling exhibit in the train station that was the subject of much attention from the children who couldn’t figure out how to push the rock around. It made me a little homesick for Minnesota!

Mount Asama, an active volcano, can be seen from most places in the town. It erupted last winter and continues to smoke today. I went on a nature hike that gave great views of the volcano as well as heard the tour guide tell the ancient stories of eruptions from centuries ago. Aside from birds, there are wild boar and monkeys in the hillside forests outside the town. The tours are in Japanese, so it helps to arrange for a translator to come along.

There are some nice places to stay in Karuizawa, and in the non-winter months, a number of upscale restaurants for tourists to enjoy in addition to the outdoor activities. (Italian and French seem to be the most popular choices.) I would recommend the town as a nice place to get away from Tokyo for 2-3 days. It was really sleepy in February, but it was still a good visit due to the onsen and places to eat.

Tokyo and Karuizawa and Jet Lag

2010-02-11T08:13:00.004-06:00

My second and third days in Japan seem a bit blurry. I started it off right – with a great breakfast, then a massage in the hotel spa – and then it all went a bit downhill. I went back to my room after my massage and leisurely got ready to go out for lunch. The ‘leisurely’ part was the mistake. I was all of a sudden so ravenous and wobbly (likely a combination of my body not knowing what time it was and also having had breakfast at 7am) that I needed lunch IMMEDIATELY. I got good directions to a food building from the concierge and was off – off to a building that had nothing open.

I had forgotten that most places in Japan close between lunch and dinner, and I was looking food at the near-impossible hour of 2:30pm. Curses! I walked and walked some more until I found a French brasserie that was open with a limited menu and dug into some steak frites. I couldn’t tell you now if it was actually good, but at the time it was the best steak I’d had in ages.

I got done with lunch and started walking around Ginza. I had the intention of buying some gloves for my trip to the mountains as well as finding an ATM. I toured the International Forum, browsed through an antiques/art show in the courtyard outside, and then headed towards the nearest depato when the jet lag headache hit. Back to the hotel for some tea and rest before going out for a nice dinner, as was my plan.

I laid down at 5pm for a nap and woke up at 2am. Yikes. It was the first time I’d slept nine hours in ages. But now I was hungry and again, nothing was open. Thank goodness for the mini-bar and gummi bears.

I got some work done and was able to rest for a few more hours before getting up at 6am. I had some breakfast and headed back for more work before packing and leaving my comfy room. I spent more hours in that hotel room in two days than I think I have ever spent in a hotel in my life! It was a nice ‘second home’. I walked over to Tokyo Station and quickly caught my train for Karuizawa where I would be picked up for my visit to a modern ecoresort and spa called Hoshinoya Karuizawa. And then I fell asleep.

I was met at the train by the charming sales manager, Nahoko Kikodoro, whom I had met at the TravelMart convention in Las Vegas last August. She gave me a quick tour of the property’s shopping area and cafes and then I was brought to the property and checked into my room with a welcome glass of tea. The view from my room is in the picture above - gorgeous, isn't it?

Hoshinoya only has wireless in one area so I wasn’t able to get work done. What a novel concept! Instead, I unpacked, learned how all the gadgets in the room worked (lights, heat, toilet), and prepared for my site inspection. (Thought I fell asleep, didn’t you?)

First Day in Tokyo - Planes, Trains and Taxis

2010-02-07T11:46:00.008-06:00

The flight over was pretty good - the flight attendants on AA153 were exceptional and I really liked my filet with morel sauce, but man - that flight gets long! I was so excited to get some sleep, but then woke up with five hours to go and felt deflated. The last two hours took forever. Even though this is my third trip to Japan, my mind and body never quite remember how tough the flight is until I'm in the middle of it. I wish someone would invent a faster and/or more relaxing way to cross the Pacific...maybe a full spa day in flight? Any takers?

I arrived at Narita and exchanged my Japan Rail pass for the actual tickets I'd need during my trip. That rail pass is pretty slick and totally worth the money. About 10 minutes later, I had six reserved tickets for all the rides I'll take this week and was waiting for the Narita Express into the city.

I have stayed at a number of locations in Tokyo, but I really do like staying in the Ginza/Marunouchi area because it is so easy to get to. After hopping on the Narita Express to Tokyo Station, you are right in the middle of that district. I chose the Four Seasons Marunouchi because it was literally a five minute walk from the outside of Tokyo Station to the front door of the hotel. There are others within about a five minute cab ride that are also great choices. In my opinion, it really beats multiple subway transfers or a very-expensive cab ride after such a long travel day. It is also a pedestrian-friendly area with good sights, restaurants and shopping.

I am still amazed how hotel reception staff can greet me by name without ever seeing me before. More on that later.

I got settled in to my room and coordinated dinner arrangements with a high school (and college) friend who lives in Tokyo and works near my hotel. It was so nice to settle in with a familiar face, even if we hadn't seen each other in we figured about 15 years? Amazing.

He took me to a fun and boisterous restaurant - Andy's Izakawa (also known as Andy's Shinhinomoto) - where we gorged ourselves on scallops, crab, sashimi, fried chicken, tempura, and sake. The restaurant is located under the tracks at Yurakucho by Bic Camera and you would absolutely miss it if you didn't know what you were looking for. You can see from the pictures in the link what a small place it is. It was the perfect way to get some good food and stay awake! And even better, the prices are very reasonable compared to other places in the area. I estimate all of the food we had was around $100 which is great in Tokyo.

Our taxi driver on the way back got a little turned around and and pulled an illegal U-turn for us which is EXTREMELY unusual in Japan. We were laughing hysterically and I think he was a bit proud of himself. I got back to the hotel at about midnight and was hoping for a quick drink in the bar but it was closed. I did a quick inspection of the spa and fitness center, then headed up to bed where I was happily able to get some sleep.

Clayoquot Wilderness Resort - September 2009

2010-01-27T23:59:00.003-06:00

I really struggle with how to accurately convey my experience at Clayoquot Wilderness Resort. With so many places I visit, it is easy to talk about the tangible aspects of a property; the layout of the rooms, the comfort of the accommodations, the friendliness of the staff. But with Clayoquot, so much of the place IS the place. It is the way you feel when you arrive, and much more so, the way you feel when you leave. I can say that when I left Clayoquot, I was the most relaxed I had been in days, weeks, months, maybe even years. And how do you put a price on that?

We arrived on a stormy day via seaplane from Vancouver. I was so relieved to be sitting in the co-pilot seat as I could see the weather, flight path, flight speed, elevation -- it was actually quite a reassuring treat, even if I was too short to see over the dash. The scenery was breathtaking – evergreen trees perched on rocky precipices like they were about to dive into the water, and bird’s eye views of mountain lakes that surely only wildlife ever sees up close.

We arrived at the dock to be escorted by horse and buggy to the lodge. The crackling fires and welcome cocktails were a cure for our damp clothing and travel-weary spirits. We settled in for an orientation from the caretaker, John Caton, who said that I was about to be challenged outside my comfort zone, but it would prove a wonderful way to be challenged. After a nice barbecue dinner, we settled in to our cozy tents and fell asleep while the rain pattered the canvas and the river skipped along stones outside.

At breakfast the next morning, a black bear joined us on his morning fishing expedition – I felt at home and somewhere new at the same time. This feeling would continue during my stay as I was able to do whatever outdoor activity I pleased for four glorious days. I went horseback riding for the first time since I was a little girl and remembered what fun it is to ride through a river as well as dense, dark, ferned forests, especially in the rain. I had a lovely massage in a tent while rain fell and I could hear the river rush outside. I went whale watching in a wave-skipping zodiac in the middle of the tide coming in. I went river kayaking in a rain-swollen current and was delightfully exhausted by the end. When I started, I was so terrified of tipping, and by the end, that cold spill into the rushing rapids was my favorite part of the whole journey.

The food and wine were a wonderful complement to the time spent in the wilderness. Local foods were expertly prepared and the choices ran the gamut from game, to seafood, to lovely vegetarian dishes. The biggest treat for me, though, was tasting the excellent British Columbian wines that were well-paired with the food and were certainly from vineyards I can’t get at home. I was so impressed with the food and wine – despite keeping extremely active during my stay, I still managed to gain a few pounds. Now THAT is a testament to excellence!

One of my favorite times at the resort was late at night, every night, when the darkness nearly enclosed the camp. We would sit in front of the outdoor fireplace with our local wines, dogs cozying up to our feet, listening to the weather and outdoors just a few feet away. After we couldn’t keep our eyes open any longer, we would follow the tiki-lit boardwalks back to our warm tents and crawl into bed, too tired to dream, but excited to start all over in the morning.

I left with the same wistfulness I used to feel at the end of summer camp – like a once-in-a-lifetime experience was coming to an end, and – even if I were to return – that singular experience couldn’t be recaptured because it wouldn’t ever be the same wonderful mix of people, weather, activities, food, and camaraderie. But I hope someday to give it a try.

I’m not sure if this did a good job of capturing my experience, but I put together a slide show to hopefully help tell the rest of the story.

Thank you so much to my friends I met there for a truly life-affirming and relaxing weekend.

Clayoquot Wilderness Resort is a Virtuoso property located on the Pacific Coast of Vancouver Island. For more information, you can contact me or go to www.wildretreat.com.

Super Bowl Ticket Packages

2010-01-24T18:48:00.002-06:00

Skol Vikings! But regardless of who ends up with the coveted trip to Miami, I do have information on Super Bowl packages if you want to contact me - info at www.schulketravel.com

The packages include hotel nights, game tickets, access to VIP parties, and you can also add on tee times at top golf courses in the area including Doral, access to yet more VIP parties, and dinners at top restaurants in the area.

I just hope there will be some purple in the house come February!

Seven trips you shouldn't book online

2010-01-15T17:08:00.003-06:00

CNN Travel just had an article today about trips you shouldn't book online and why. I thought it had some really good points, especially for can't miss, once in a lifetime trips like honeymoons or special family anniversaries. Leaving trips like that up to chance can leave a bad taste in your mouth for months or even years -- much different than a guys' weekend to Vegas that heads south.

But another good point in the article was that of time savings. The amount of time it takes for an average consumer to navigate all the different online options and keep track of what flight was when, and which price was where, is often not worth it when he or she could be focused on other things. For people that are overwhelmed by jobs and family, the fee to have someone who knows your interests take care of all the research for you is often worth its weight in gold.

Stuck Due to Weather? A Travel Advisor Tip

2009-12-23T11:02:00.005-06:00

I am planning to go to Vancouver on Thursday morning. The Thursday morning when Minneapolis-St. Paul is supposed to be getting a foot of snow. So I am anticipating a busy day tomorrow of checking the weather, checking the time, checking with our hotel in Vancouver, and hoping my airline is flexible enough that I don't miss my entire vacation.

But one thing I have at my disposal that many people don't know about (unless they already use travel advisors) is dedicated airline customer service numbers just for travel agents. When most people are standing in line at the airport waiting for someone to even speak to them, in many cases I can dial up a dedicated number and have quicker, friendlier service than the average traveler and get my issues wrapped up and flights rebooked! And sometimes they even have up-to-date information on the delays they are willing to share with me so I'm not as in the dark as everyone in the terminal.

One of the most common objections I hear to booking people's plane tickets is that they can do the research themselves and book them so easily. Agreed, but if there is a chance of flight delay due to weather or something else, it might make sense to use a travel advisor anyway. You might have your problem solved before you even get in that nasty line.

NOTE: Not all airlines have these numbers, but most do. Your travel agent will know which ones those are. And, for my extra crafty readers, don't try finding them yourself - you need certain identification to get through.

In any case, you may be getting some great pictures and posts from Vancouver this weekend, or you may see pictures of my snowy yard in Minnesota. Happy Holidays!

Coldest Hotel Ever

2009-12-09T13:49:00.002-06:00

I stayed at the Doubletree Hotel in downtown Minneapolis last night. It was a blizzard outside and I had to decide between heading home for 5 hours of sleep before turning right back around to drive into work, or staying safe and getting more sleep in a warm bed.

The plan in itself was great, except for the warm bed part. I woke up partway through the night just shivering. I thought maybe the heat wasn't on, so I turned it on. Then an hour later, still shivering. I turned the heat up to 80 and turned on the fan. Still didn't help. I realized this morning that I could hear the snowplows outside, eight floors below, through the vent in my room. Not a good sign. And when I opened the windows to check the snow, the draft that hit me through the windows was an eye-opener.

I was in such a hurry to get to work this morning that I didn't have a chance to talk to the front desk, but I will be sure to give them a call so they can see about a fix. Until then, don't stay in Room 801.

Hope everyone is staying warm!

Spa Review - Ritz-Carlton Buckhead

2009-11-08T21:20:00.002-06:00

While I was in Atlanta last week, I took advantage of some down time to get a massage at the Ritz-Carlton Buckhead spa. A few quick thoughts:

First, I chose the wrong treatment for my achin’ back. This was totally my fault. The hot stone massage did not do much for my knots, and in the future I will know that I need a heck of a lot more prodding and kneading to feel better.

That aside, I wasn’t a big fan of the spa. It is obviously hotel room space that has been converted a bit awkwardly into spa treatment rooms. I spoke to the woman at the desk and she said they are still working to get everything remodeled, but for now, while the appearance is fine, it doesn’t really feel like a spa.

It was also the noisiest massage I’ve ever had in my life. The massage rooms are right across the hall from the spa desk, so I could hear all of the reservations being made, people checking in for their treatments, the elevator dinging, and people talking on the phone out in the hallway outside their guest rooms. Then when a democracy demonstration started outside the hotel and the man with the megaphone was blaring chants and people driving by were honking at him, I started laughing right out loud. Soundproofing is desperately needed. My masseur was good and everyone was perfectly nice, but it wasn't at all relaxing.

Good flight option to Europe from the US

2009-11-01T22:11:00.006-06:00

Icelandair recently announced that it has expanded its European destinations from the US to include Stavanger and Dusseldorf in addition to the major gateways listed here.

A quick check of airfares to Europe from MSP and other US cities throughout next year, including London and Paris, found that Icelandair was almost always the least or second least expensive fare. As the airline continues to add gateways, it only increases consumers' options to get to Europe. This is always a good thing.

However, it gets even better. The airline has been running a promotion that allows you to stop over in Iceland either on the way to or from Europe for no additional airfare charge. While this would not have been as attractive when Iceland was one of the most expensive places in the world, the recent financial crises have made the country much more affordable.

What would you do in Iceland? Aside from the lovely city of Reykjavik, Iceland has a vast array of natural wonders, including geysers, hot springs, and waterfalls. The Icelandair website has some additional options for touring that can be added to your package, or else contact your travel agent for a custom experience suited to your interests.

Icelandair
http://www.icelandair.us

Tips for Enjoying Canyon Ranch - Tucson

2009-09-09T12:28:00.004-05:00

I recently spent a weekend at Canyon Ranch in Tucson. Even after a short stay, I left rejuvenated and with a better outlook. Here are some tips and thoughts for how to maximize your time there and get the most out of your experience at one of the top destination spas in the country.

Take a tour when you get there. It is a great way to learn about all the offerings and amenities, and to not get lost as you make your way to classes.
Stay at least three nights, if not more. I was there for two and it was hard not to try to pack as much in to my schedule as possible, which defeats the purpose of being there in the first place. I just got into my groove after the second night, and then had to leave.
The executive double rooms are lovely, and the beds...sigh...so comfortable. Our room had a terrace both front and back for lounging, nice amount of light, and it was removed from the center of the property so we felt like we had the place to ourselves. There was a comfortable interior sitting area as well, and plenty of storage space to move-in. It was also a great starting point for the walking trails.
Do have a plan for what you want to do. There are so many choices, that it is helpful to think a bit beforehand about what you want out of the experience, whether it be relaxation, exercise, nutrition, help with health concerns, etc. There are advisors there to help you optimize your time, but having an idea will help. Ask questions, as well.
That said, be flexible. You will hear about wonderful classes and instructors to check out, and you don't want to miss out on those opportunities, either. (For example, Isabella's stretching class - fantastic.)
Don't be afraid to go by yourself. There is a captain's table in the restaurant if you choose to meet other people, but everyone is very friendly, and will give you the amount of space, or lack thereof, you require.
Sample in the restaurant. The kitchen is more than willing to give you small tastes of things, and don't feel guilty about ordering multiple tastes. The food is so healthy and tasty, and I was spoiled by the pomegranate and orange juices. Definitely try the nonfat hot fudge sauce with homemade ice cream. It is amazing.
Wine is not allowed except in the privacy of your own room. If you think you'll want some, bring some in advance if you won't have a car. We didn't have any wine during our stay, which was unusual for me; the fresh juice mocktails were a nice change. A longer stay, though, and I would have liked some since I'm used to having it with dinner.
Don't turn on the TV. This may go without saying, but there are nice TVs in the rooms, so don't be tempted.
Hydrate. The desert air took some time to get used to, from both a breathing and skin health standpoint.
The storms that came through were so beautiful - I would definitely recommend a stay during the August storm season as the cacti are flowering and there are tons of little critters around to watch.
Reserve some time to just sit by the pool with a book and eat homemade sorbet.
No tipping allowed! That was such a nice perk. And when I did the math with the gratuity included, the spa services ended up being more reasonable than the spa I go to at home.
Plan some time to return in the next year if you can. You will want to capitalize on the strides you've made in your time at the Ranch. There are some specials for returning customers that your travel advisor can assist with, as well as packages for new clients that represent great value, including an air credit for a four-night stay.

The people that made my stay so great included: the drivers to and from the airport, Beatrice who gave the tour, Kevin and Bettye in Sales, CJ in the salon, and Jennifer and Pamela gave great massages in the spa. Pamela put me to sleep, and Jennifer got some knots out I think have been there since 1999.

Feel free to contact me with any other questions about the property.

Canyon Ranch
www.canyonranchtucson.com

Booking Space in National Park Lodges

2009-09-03T12:54:00.008-05:00

As some of you may know, there is a new Ken Burns series coming out on PBS related to our National Parks System, and the ground-breaking concept of national parks that has since filtered to other countries around the world. This series airs starting next week on PBS if you want to check your local schedules.

Thankfully, after a period of decline, traffic in our parks has been up a bit this year, as many people stay closer to home and look for less expensive leisure pursuits for their families.

One of the highlights of our park system is the number of historic lodges, with prime locations that put visitors in a great position to see the sights and take part in activities, as well as experience a part of our country's history. I'm not sure about you, but I have been in the position of trying to find space in one of our fantastic National Park lodges, calling back to see about cancellations, getting on waiting lists, trying to find backup accommodation... Space in these lodges is a hot commodity to say the least, and trying to book it can take up the majority of your vacation planning time.

There is an easier option. Yankee Holidays, a US tour operator, actually has contracts for lodging space in our National Parks. Booking a package with them often includes nights in one or more of these historic lodges, without the hassle of multiple phone calls, schedule wrangling, and researching backup options. For example, one of their featured packages includes three nights at two properties in Glacier National Park, in addition to some tours (including a lake cruise) and a dinner. I tried to stay at Many Glacier Lodge the summer of 1996, and after much effort, ended up at a motel instead. If only I had known...

If you are planning a national park trip in the future, take a look at their website, http://www.yankeeholidays.com/home.php, or contact me for assistance in getting the best access.

Hotel Report - Graves 601 Minneapolis

2009-09-02T12:31:00.013-05:00

My apologies for the delay in recent posting. Client travel and a redesign of my website have been keeping me busy - can't wait to send out the website when it's complete!

In my continued quest to stay at local hotels (gotta know what's in my own backyard!), I stayed at Graves 601 this summer. I loved this hotel.

(One note: I stayed here before a number of restaurant and retail properties in the same Block E complex closed, so the area was quite vibrant. No word yet on how the area has been affected. Stay tuned.)

The hotel is right across the street from the Target Center (home of Timberwolves and many events) and will be near the new Twins Target Field, opening spring of 2010. It is within walking distance of shopping, the Warehouse District bar area, and the theater district on Hennepin Avenue. I do not think it is within walking distance of the Metrodome or the Guthrie Theater unless you are up for a long walk. It is two blocks away from the light rail stop and across the street from First Avenue, the site of many a great concert.

This property was a Le Meridien test of a flagship “Art + Tech” concept for their company. Guests enter on the ground floor where the Bradstreet restaurant is located and go up to the fourth floor to transfer to guest elevators. The space focuses on interesting art installations and softly played techno/new age music. Staff wear black tunics and look a bit ‘Star Trek’. The overall feeling is of calm quiet - very relaxed.

I stayed in an upgraded king room with a spa tub. I loved this room. It was extremely well-lit, comfortable, yet upscale. In an interesting change, the platform king bed is actually turned to face out the window and see the view. Behind the bed is an etched glass headboard with reading lights and scenes from the city. The wardrobe and mini bar are behind the headboard. There was a desk and a chaise lounge near the window. Our view was of the new Twins stadium.
The bathroom was very nice with a glass walk-in shower with rain head, a large vessel sink with overflow faucet, and a two-person spa tub. There is a flat screen television in the wall above the tub. In a nice touch, they provide bath sachets for you to include while soaking.

A highlight of this hotel (and something that brings me back again and again) is the food. There are two restaurants, Cosmos and Bradstreet Crafthouse. Bradstreet focuses on gourmet small plates made with local ingredients as well as creative bar offerings. They have full-time mixologists on staff who are constantly inventing new cocktails that have a lot of pizzazz (think infusions, unusual ingredients, great presentations). The duck confit quesadillas are wonderful, as are the local artisan cheeses which come with a ton of bread and side nibbles. On a return visit, we loved the allspice butter-poached shrimp with pomegranate seeds, the foie gras, and the gourmet BLT with pork belly, wilted chard, tomato jam, and a fried egg. The staff when I’ve been there has been charming but sarcastic. Extremely helpful with ordering, giving tastes of drinks, good conversation, but always up for giving you a gentle ribbing. I prefer sitting at the bar where you can talk to the chef as he prepares items (and you're also more prone to getting a few tastes). Click here for more information.

On the fourth floor, Cosmos is one of the gems in the Minneapolis dining scene. A AAA Four-Diamond restaurant, it is in a futuristic room with white leather chairs and banquettes and a lot of glass. There are no windows in the space as the windows are covered by thick drapery. (This is a good thing as the Target Center would be the view outside.) French techniques are the focus here, but the dishes are not traditional French – they feature unique ingredients in elegant presentations. Service here is impeccable. One of the last times I was there with a friend, we were running late for a show and the server told us to go and come back for dessert and pay at that time. Needless to say, we came back for dessert and then some. This is a special occasion/foodie destination to be sure. For menus and information, the restaurant website is here.

Final thoughts:

Foodies welcome here, as well as clients who are going to events downtown and want to be in the center of the action.
Romantics who are going to nest inside for a weekend would also really like it.
There are nightclub, sports, and concert crowds outside at night.
The rooms are lovely and have very nice views.
The staff is friendly, but not chummy. Very competent, especially in the restaurants.
Good shopping is about a 5 block walk away.
There are some bus stops around the hotel that get very busy, especially before and after the workday.
Word is still out on how the hotel will be affected by recent closures nearby.

Graves 601 Hotel
601 N 1st Ave
Minneapolis, MN 55403
(612) 677-1100
www.graves601hotel.com
www.cosmosrestaurant.com
www.bradstreetcrafthouse.com

Hotel Report - The Westin Minneapolis

2009-09-02T11:22:00.009-05:00

I decided to stay at a few hometown properties this summer to get a feel for them in case any clients request information. Not only was it a good excuse to stay at nice hotels, but it actually felt like a mini-vacation, aside from the fact that I did not need a map and knew exactly what I wanted to do. I was an expert tourist!

I tried the Westin Minneapolis and the Graves 601 - two of the more upscale properties downtown. I plan to hit the rest before the end of the year.

The Westin hotel is located one block off the Nicollet Mall pedestrian area, and is right across the street from the Wells Fargo corporate tower. It is within easy walking distance of all the landmarks downtown, shopping, sports stadiums, and restaurants. It might be a bit of a haul to the Guthrie Theater if you are dressed for the evening, so there I would recommend a cab. For those taking the light rail from the airport, the nearest station is just a two block walk.

This hotel is in one of my favorite spaces in the city. It is in a former bank and the impressive two-story, wood-paneled lobby was once the site of the teller counters and the bank staff, including the executive offices. They have done a great job of incorporating a bar and restaurant into the space, as well as the hotel check-in. The only awkward thing about the flow is that guests need to walk through the side of the restaurant to check-in.

I stayed in a standard king and was also in a suite, visiting friends. I was impressed with the size of the room, as it had enough space for a little sitting area in addition to my king bed, and there is a large wooden bureau for storage and the flat-screen TV. The bureau had some water stains on it from use. The bathroom was fully-tiled with a nice walk-in tempered glass shower, but two of the door handles were close to falling off, including the one on the tempered shower door. The vanity had some space for smaller toiletries, but it was hard to maneuver a hair-dryer and find a place to put it on the counter without it falling, which made getting ready a bit awkward.

The suite was very nice with one room the size of my king and a connected room with a lounge area and a sofa. There were TVs in both rooms and 1.5 baths. The only downfall was that only the bedroom had temperature control so the lounge area got very warm with a number of us in the room and there wasn’t a good way to cool it down. The rooms themselves were quiet and there wasn't a lot of noise coming from the hallway.

I checked out a very impressive fitness center with weights, machines, and multiple televisions for guests to view while working out. The pool and whirlpool spa area are part of the fitness center, and are utilitarian stainless steel pools, but just fine for after you work out. Definitely not for family fun. The concierge staff has a very comfortable area with large couches and desks, and there is also a business center there for guests.

The gorgeous restaurant, BANK, has very good appetizers and a well-known and well-worth-it happy hour with creative drinks using local ingredients such as blueberries and artisan vodkas. I love the central bar area. There are also a number of intimate couches with throw pillows that are good for small groups, and the private dining rooms (which are the old offices of the bank execs) can hold a larger number of people. Two of the private rooms are traditional dining rooms, but the others have low couches with pillows, a bar area and flat screens for intimate cocktail parties. I would love to celebrate a special occasion in one of those spaces! The dinner menu features American fare and is good, but is not my first choice in the area. (In the interest of full disclosure, I didn't eat dinner there this time, but have eaten there three times in the past, so this opinion may not reflect current food status.)

Final thoughts:

Wonderful first impressions when you walk in to the jaw-dropping space. The meeting spaces would be great for entertaining or conducting business, both in the restaurant and the upstairs meeting rooms.
Some of the spacious rooms need updated fixtures and furniture. The suites are good-sized with stylish contemporary pieces. The beds are very comfortable and the quiet rooms and hallways make for good sleep.
Very nice fitness center.
The lovely restaurant, while superb for appetizers and happy hour, doesn’t match up to other places in the city for dinner in my previous experiences.
The hotel is a striking period piece with old pictures from the bank as well as original fixtures like the bank safe, tall double doors into meeting spaces, and carved woodwork.
In my opinion, great for business travel or a weekend stay, also one of the best options in town for formal entertaining and meetings.

The Westin Minneapolis
http://www.starwoodhotels.com/westin/property/overview/index.html?propertyID=1723
88 South 6th Street
Minneapolis, Minnesota 55402-1114
(612) 333-4006

The Benefits of Working with a Virtuoso Advisor

2009-08-06T02:04:00.017-05:00

I am as web-savvy as the next person, and have enjoyed booking travel online for years, but as I've gotten my business off the ground, I've realized people don't know the value a travel advisor can provide above and beyond what exists on the Web.

After sending out my introductory notes and business cards, a number of people asked me why they would pay a hotel or tour company more just for booking through me, and I even had a friend respond with support, but say: "I don't think I'll ever use your services because I have a computer." Unfortunately, these sentiments are pretty common, but couldn't be farther from the truth.

In fact, due to my industry connections, I can often get offers, upgrades, and other added amenities at the same price or less than what people find for the same property or tour online. In addition, I have access to packages, tours and special experiences that aren't available anywhere else. This is where my relationship with Virtuoso comes in.

Less than 1% of America's agencies are accepted for membership in Virtuoso. These select agencies must be able to offer clients extensive knowledge and wide-ranging experience on travel throughout the world, and accredited consultants must pass a series of courses that assist them in creating experiences -- not just trips or vacations.

Benefits of the Virtuoso relationship include:

• Personalized attention for my clients from the time I book their travel through the time they return home

• Access to travel experiences and offers exclusive to Virtuoso members

• Added amenities such as credits and meals, upgrades when available, and priority designation when space is limited

• Virtuoso TravelMart - an annual gathering of the 'Virtuoso brain trust' - all the top agencies and suppliers from around the world. During a four day endurance test in August, I met thousands of people and learned the latest travel trends and offerings, networked, and - in my spare time - used these connections to craft special travel experiences for my clients. The personal connections I gained at TravelMart have already proven fruitful in the two months since I was there.

In my time as a Virtuoso advisor, I have had a hotel manager in Los Angeles give my clients the best seat in the house, right next to a famous director; I have had a tour operator in Athens change their schedule on the fly so my clients didn't have to walk to another hotel for pickup; and I have had a tour representative personally meet some clients in Peru in the middle of the night and reimburse their expenses when the local tour company printed their train tickets with the wrong date. The list goes on and on.

I am constantly impressed by the level of service our Virtuoso partners give me as they only make my job easier by going the extra mile for my clients.

Dealing with a Lodging Emergency

2009-08-06T02:04:00.006-05:00

I recently got back from a trip to a Pacific NW state with my mom, grandmother, and boyfriend where I split the lodging reservation duties with my mother. Typically I would handle them all myself, but my mom loves staying at intimate inns and B&Bs so I let her do some of that research for two of our overnights. We checked into a B&B one afternoon that for all initial appearances was in good shape. There were some small issues, like no towels, some dusting needed to be done, etc. but the owners were friendly and helpful – even offering us a glass of wine (you’ll see why this is shocking in hindsight) and making us a dinner reservation at a very good restaurant. (Note: this was the type of B&B where the innkeepers actually live there as their house.)

After a nice afternoon spent relaxing at the house, we left for dinner. We returned back to the house around 9pm and, as we walked up to the house, realized something wasn’t right. We overheard a full-on domestic argument taking place inside the house. All the screens were open and we could clearly hear what was a very violent exchange with swearing, slamming around – basically a lot of anger being unleashed. We heard only the man screaming and weren't sure where his wife was. Needless to say, we hightailed it out of the driveway, extremely nervous and shaking. So – what next? We drove around – this was not a place where there are a lot of good choices for lodging, especially after 9:00 at night, but we found two rooms at a Comfort Inn and then started discussing how to get our things out of the house.

I decided to call the police. We were walking into an uncertain situation at best, we had personal possessions that needed to be retrieved, and I decided that if I were at home and overheard that I would certainly do the same thing. Why should it be different when traveling? The police met us in front of the house, where I explained the situation and they escorted us in. They were very helpful. I have never packed so quickly in my life! As we were leaving, the male owner apologized profusely saying his wife was an alcoholic, in and out of treatment, and had gotten in a bad way that evening after drinking. So that gave us some background, but we were so relieved to be done with that experience.

In my mom’s defense, she had spoken with these innkeepers in person and via email on multiple occasions and felt comfortable with her choice. I truly believe this would have happened to anyone who stayed there that night, and this is obviously a delicate situation because personal issues are involved. But, it was such a stressful situation and it is still obviously on my mind.

As we finished up our trip, I began to think I should put some tips together for clients who find themselves in the same or a similar unenviable position, especially people who typically hate to rock the boat. I shudder to think of the terrible night someone could have had if he or she had returned and pretended everything was alright. The bottom line is – if a traveler is uncomfortable with a lodging, he/she shouldn’t stay there, but obviously this was a more serious situation. A few questions:

When should you call the police? When is it safe to confront the manager/owner about a bad stay and when should you just leave? I decided to call the police because we were concerned about our safety, the safety of his wife, and had personal property at stake, but are there other nuances to take into consideration?

In addition, when do I pass this information on to other travelers, to the B&B association, to the Better Business Bureau? What other steps should I take during and after my trip?

I feel these people shouldn’t be running a B&B while dealing with something so serious, but as far as I can tell their website is still up and running and they are still open for business, which makes me uncomfortable, but who am I to determine whether they’ve dealt with their problem, or to air their dirty laundry?

I am leaning towards reporting the incident to a B&B association in their state, but comments are welcome.

Family Reunion in Mount Shasta, California

2009-08-02T11:25:00.006-05:00

What a beautiful area of the country. We filled our only full day in Mount Shasta with more activities than we normally would, but it was worth it to see what we saw.

We began in the morning with a hike in the McCloud River area just east of Mount Shasta. The Lower Falls are easiest to access as there is a parking lot and picnic area. There were a number of fisherpeople snagging trout out of the river both above and below the falls. The falls are safe to jump into from about three different locations and we took the plunge. The harder part was trying to teach your body how to swim after jumping into 42-ish degree water and then figuring out how to climb back out, but we made it work and it was totally worth it. http://www.visitsiskiyou.org/hikes/hike6.html

After we dried off and took a victory picture with all the other jumpers, we set off for the Middle Falls. These are a bit more difficult to access - via about a 3/4 mile dirt path - but the scenery was gorgeous. We were surrounded by huge pine trees, rocks as big as your living room, and the sound of a babbling brook that we couldn't yet see, but could hear just a few feet away. At the end of the path, the view opens up to this. Wowza.

It was so tempting to stick around and play in the cool water, especially as the temperatures began to flirt with 100. The jump into the frigid lower falls was looking more and more appetizing as the day went on.

But we had a brewfest to go to! We were fortunate enough to be in Mount Shasta during a number of fun events, including a summit century bike ride (these amazing people ride 100+ miles through the mountains, on a course that is more difficult than a mountain stage at the Tour de France!) and a Pacific Northwest micro-brewfest at the Mount Shasta ski park. The brewfest was a highlight - it was $20 and 60 beers were on tap to be sampled, with a live band. Proceeds benefited the local Rotary club. Our favorites were Deschutes (not a big surprise), Lagunitas, and Arrogant Bastard. It was starting to get very hot so we only stayed for about 90 minutes and hightailed it out of there for some shade. http://www.shastasummitcentury.com/

After the brewfest, we headed into downtown Mount Shasta for a family picnic. The picnic was held at the headwaters of the Sacramento River where there are springs coming straight out of a hill. A number of people were there, filling up jugs of water to take back home. The water tasted great in the summer heat. http://www.msrec.org/

After a fun afternoon and evening with family, we headed back to our comfortable rented home in McCloud, about 12 miles away, and bedded down while listening to a raucous thunderstorm outside the window.

What a perfect day.

Medjugorje

2009-06-27T11:54:00.005-05:00

The drive to Medjugorje from Croatia takes you through mountains and switchbacks, but not like you might imagine. The mountains are not covered in trees or snow, they are large gray walls of rock. Gray rocks and hills as far as you can see. The bus driver skillfully navigated narrow roads and trips through Bosnian towns obviously still rebuilding from the war.

The spareness of the drive contrasted with our arrival in Medjugorje. The town is in a valley and the hills around the town are treed with rocks in browns and reds instead of grays. The church in the middle of the town has some lovely gardens and shrines that add to the feeling of color.

Medjugorje is a site for pilgrims who believe that Mary appeared -- and continues to appear on a regular basis -- to a group of people from the town. The local parish releases the messages from Mary on a regular basis to anyone who requests them. The town has not been offically recognized as a pilgrimage site by the Roman Catholic Church, but still many people come. The day we were there was a weekday, and the masses were filled with people coming from motorcoaches as well as local towns.

We stayed overnight in one of the larger hotels in town, right next to the church, but it was still very basic. The beds were much like camp beds. Our meals were good, served family style, and service was friendly. But the rooms' walls were bare, the floors were not carpeted, and the drapes did not darken the room. Granted, if one is there for a pilgrimage, those might not be priorities, but just something to keep in mind if you plan a trip there.

The town feels peaceful, but that peace is overshadowed by what seems like a growing number of trinket stores and inexpensive religious items made in other countries and shipped to the town. I was told by our guide that the parish gift shop is the only place where you can be certain your purchases came from artists in the region, and that shop has a nicer array of non-plastic rosaries, sculptures, books, etc. I'd highly recommend a trip there be your only stop besides the shrines.

Keep in mind, the hike up to the main shrine where the apparitions began is not easy. There is a very steep walk from the parking area up to the hill itself, and then the hill is extremely rocky. Surefootedness is a must. The walk up takes 30-45 minutes, perhaps longer if you stop at each shrine and memorial, or if it's very crowded.

If I were to send travelers to this site, I'd likely make it a daytrip, leaving early in the morning to see the site, attend mass for those who are interested, and then return.

Hotel Report - Hotel Bellevue, Dubrovnik

2009-06-27T10:16:00.006-05:00

I did a site inspection at Hotel Bellevue in Dubrovnik in March.

Location

This hotel is located on the coast just north of Dubrovnik – probably 10-15 minutes away from the old town. The property is right on the sea and built into the sea cliff. Guests enter on the top floor into a spacious lobby – some guest floors are located on that floor, the others are downstairs.

Overview

The hotel is a bit smaller and newer than the others I saw in Dubrovnik. It has 93 rooms on five floors. 17 of the rooms are twins, all others are king bedded or suites. The interior of the hotel focuses on local organic materials mixed with local contemporary art. The overall feel is very chic and a bit high-tech.

Rooms

We viewed four rooms. The first, #312, was a deluxe room with a king bed and a sitting room with an optional 3^rd single bed in the sofa. All floors were wood. The room had a very contemporary bathroom with L’Occitane products in glass bottles. The colors were in beige ceramic tiles with dark woods and off white vessel sinks. I was impressed by the large balcony on this room – it was a very nice size for one of the two basic room categories.

Room #401, a Senior Suite, featured a king bed with a larger sitting area. It had a full bath with double sinks, a jetted tub and shower as well as a quarter-bath. The flowers in the room were real orchids in bloom. This room has an extra large balcony accessible from both the living area and bedroom and also features a dining alcove.

Room #507 was a standard room with twin beds. It did not have a balcony or a larger sitting area, just a desk and lounge chair. The lack of balcony was slightly made up for by especially large windows.

Room #501, the Presidential Suite, had a full wrap-around balcony with gorgeous views of the sea. Like the Senior Suites, there were two baths, but instead of a quarter bath, the second bath was a ¾ bath with a glass-enclosed shower. There was a full dining room table as well as a living room with an L-shaped coach and additional library chair.

As you can hopefully see from the pictures, the rooms were very comfortable, and I was impressed with the quality of the fixtures, especially in the bathrooms. They put a lot of thought into how to optimize the space. And those balconies were such a treat!

Other Facilities

The hotel has a private beach with a beach bar and restaurant – a rarity in this area. It is only accessible via multiple flights of stairs, however, so not handicapped accessible as far as I could see. There is a hair salon and fitness area.

The spa was gorgeous and felt very intimate. It overlooks the sea on one of the lower floors and has a number of treatment rooms in addition to a pool and whirlpool. There were both Finnish and Turkish saunas as well as hot and cold showers and hot rocks for foot therapy.

Restaurants

The highlight of our wonderful visit was a four-course seafood lunch at Restaurant Vapor, replete with fine linens and wonderful Croatian wines served in Riedel crystal. Our first course was a monkfish carpaccio with tapenade. The second course was a langoustine bisque with lobster ravioli. The very creative third course was a trio of risottos and fish. The first of the trio was a monkfish atop vegetable risotto. The second was red snapper with mushroom risotto, and the final was sea bass on top of asparagus risotto. We finished the meal with mini chocolate soufflés and homemade pistachio ice cream. The dining room view was fantastic, and there is a large terrace where they serve meals in the summer months. Our wines were a local white malvasija and a lovely plavac mali.

Service was outstanding. Both Vapor and the beach restaurant, Nevera, specialize in local seafood with European and Middle Eastern touches. There is also a bar area connected to Vapor.

Final Thoughts

The rooms were of a nice size and the setting was stunning. It was a bit more intimate and I felt the target demographic skewed a bit younger because of the high-tech rooms and the inventive cuisine. Accessibility may be an issue because of the beach being so far down the cliff from the hotel and there were a few areas of the floors that were down a few steps. In addition, it is a bit of a walk to the old town so I wouldn’t put someone here who wants to be in Dubrovnik every day unless they are fine with cab rides. They should also want to enjoy taking in the relaxing scene at the hotel and hanging out at the spa and the beach.

Hotel Bellevue - Pera Cingrije 7, 20000 Dubrovnik, Croatia

Phone +385 20 330 000

Fax +385 20 330 100

Email welcome@hotel-bellevue.hr

Web http://www.hotel-bellevue.hr/

Hiring Private Guides

2009-06-10T21:00:00.003-05:00

Imagine if you will the following scenario:

You are on a cruise ship with a few thousand other passengers. You are docking in Venice and you are not looking forward to being shuttled around the sights with a few hundred of your closest friends. You really wanted to get away into some of the quieter areas and see some things on your own that no one else would see.

OR

You are in a country where you don't speak the language and in an area where English isn't well-known. How will you get around? How will you get a sense of the place you are outside of having your nose in a guidebook?

These are instances where private guides are indispensable.

Private guides are often an afterthought when planning travel, but are a good way to get an intimate feel for a destination or sometimes even peace of mind.

When I was in Croatia with my dad earlier this year, we were in a part of the country where little English was spoken. Our private guide was a lifesaver. He stayed with us for three days (in a separate hotel room), translated for us, drove us to remote landmarks, and helped us find relatives we didn't know we had. He was well worth the added expense.

Guides can be hired in a number of different scenarios:

For a specific landmark, like the Sistine Chapel
For a day in a city either as a layover or part of your itinerary, like the highlights of London
For a shore excursion, like finding a remote beach in St. Martin
For the length of a journey, like translating for two Americans looking for relatives in Croatia, hypothetically speaking

How do you find a good private guide? Contact your trusted travel advisor. They will work with networks and suppliers who specialize in matching you with exactly what you are looking for.

Hotel Report - Hotel Excelsior

2009-05-16T11:40:00.005-05:00

I stayed at Hotel Excelsior in Dubrovnik during my recent trip to Croatia.

Location
The hotel is in an amazing location – only about 5 minutes’ walk just south of the city gate. It is downhill to the city and uphill going back, but not too strenuous a walk. Guests enter the hotel on the top floor and go downstairs for the guest rooms and restaurants.

Overview
There are 158 rooms in two wings. The lobby is a bit small, but there is a large terrace just outside where one can wait if there a few people in line. Rumor has it the Croatian president was here during our stay so we had quite a bit of security folk and fancy cars milling around. Nothing interfered with our service, however. Everyone was extremely helpful and there was always someone around to assist.

Rooms

Oh – the views! We had a lovely luxury room on the 1st floor with two French balconies overlooking the water. We could see the Dubrovnik harbor very easily. The sounds of the waves crashing on the rocks at night were wonderful. The armoire was just a bit small for two people and it was located right inside the door, which made it sometimes awkward getting at things. However, the tradeoff is much more space in the room, which was very nice. The ceilings were at least ten feet high, and there was a nice reading chair and a large desk. The French balconies had heavy wide-striped curtains and shuttered doors that swung out and could be secured with hooks so as not to blow around. Floors and furniture were light hardwood. It felt a bit “beachy.”

The bathrooms were done in very nice beige tile and marble and had dual vessel sinks sitting on darker wood vanities. There is free wifi for all guests. The tile floors were heated. Products were Aveda in plastic bottles.

I wasn’t able to see any other room types, but the suites have larger terraces with chairs and tables instead of French balconies.

Other Facilities
The indoor pool and spa area were very large. The locker rooms were spacious with a changing area and two large walk-in showers with tempered glass doors. The pool area was huge, with a large lap pool, two smaller zero-entry pools with benches and jets on the outside, and two tepid whirlpools (argh). There were heated lounge chairs along the back wall facing the ocean. There was also a sauna, steam room, and hot/cold showers in this area. In the summer, the doors overlooking the sea are kept open so that the pool area is an extension of the outdoors and almost looks to blend into the sea. To be honest, the pools were a disappointment in the cold weather, but perhaps are very refreshing when it is hot as the blazes outside.

In the summer, the sea calms down and people can moor their boats right up to the hotel and spend an evening in the sun with cocktails. There is also an area where one can walk down steps into the water, but the waves were so crazy when we were there it wasn’t an option.

The conference area in this hotel is large and all of the rooms walk out onto a large terrace overlooking the sea which can be setup for cocktail parties and other events.

Restaurants
There is a large bar on floor ‘zero’ with indoor and outdoor seating. We ate in the bar one night off of the room service menu, and the food was fantastic. Large sandwiches with proper pommes frites, good soups and salads, and some local specialties, including a take on pasta Bolognese that was a highlight. Drinks were similarly priced to NYC or San Francisco.

There is a very good sushi restaurant that is open until midnight every day. It was a smaller restaurant, probably seating around 30.

The main restaurant seats between 100 and 150 (I am guessing based on room size, but am terrible at guessing based on size, so don’t quote me on this) and is self service for breakfast and a la carte for lunch. The breakfasts were very large – breads, hot and cold meats, cheeses, pastries, toasts, fruits, cereals, juices, eggs, etc. The fine dining restaurant is open for dinner with very upscale prices. Asparagus soup was $25. I wasn’t able to eat there so can’t provide a review – I was too busy exploring Dubrovnik restaurants!

Final Thoughts
This hotel was very comfortable and felt homey, even with the hardwood floors and breezy décor. The location was fantastic and the service accommodating. It was a great combination of creature comforts mixed with Croatian touches. I felt like I was in a different country, yet felt like home.

Hotel Excelsior - Frana Supila 12, 20000 Dubrovnik, Croatia
Phone +385 20 353 353
Fax +385 20 353 555, 311-425
Email info@hotel-excelsior.hr
Web http://www.hotel-excelsior.hr

Hotel Report - Dubrovnik Palace

2009-05-04T02:10:00.006-05:00

I did a site inspection of Dubrovnik Palace during my recent trip to Croatia.

Location
The hotel is about 20 minutes north of the walled city. it would be a nice walk to the city on a nice day (especially since it’s downhill), but definitely a taxi ride back to the hotel at night or for those not in great shape. The property itself is on the sea and built into a hill. Guests enter on the top floor, and then go down for most of the guest rooms.

Overview
The property was opened in 1971 and operated until the war, and then reopened in 2004 after a complete remodel. It was basically bombed down to a shell during the war. There are 308 rooms, and all rooms have a terrace. The terraces are an OK size, but there are safety bars that come up over the balcony wall and curve into the terrace, taking up some space. For someone of my height (5’3”), I couldn’t see much of the view because the bars were right at my eye level. Anyone else would have no problem.

Rooms
We toured a standard room and a junior suite.

The standard room (#716) has twin beds and one bath done in beige tile. The room is a very nice size with a balcony, and is done in muted shades of brown and lavender. There is a large armoire with ample storage space for two people’s clothing.

The junior suite (#902) has two twin beds with the same color scheme as the standard rooms, plus a sofa bed for a third person in the living area. There is a television in each room. There are two baths in the suites. The first is a shower only, the second a full bath with tub/shower combo.

The bathrooms are stocked with L’Occitane products in glass bottles. There is free wifi and bathrobes are furnished for all guests.

We also toured rooms in the private secure wing, which is where the hotel owner has his suite, as well as where the VIPs stay as it has a separate private entrance and its own room service with dumbwaiters and the ability to house butlers for those who bring them. The rooms in this wing have high ceilings and hardwood floors. The bathrooms look much more contemporary, with beige ceramic tiles and soft lighting. The baths in the master bedrooms have whirlpool jets. The rooms in this wing all have a larger living area, a small dining room table, and a larger balcony with a lovely planter instead of the safety bars.

Other Facilities

The indoor pool and spa area are very comfortable with a large deck with reclining chairs looking at the sea. The whirlpool was tepid – there were few actual ‘hot’ tubs to be found in Croatia, much to my chagrin.

The outdoor pool opens in May and has a bar – it is right down on the water. We weren’t able to see it up close, unfortunately, as it was closed for renovating.

The conference area in this hotel is huge and has a large terrace overlooking the sea which can be setup for cocktail parties and other events. They were conducting a large conference while we toured so we were unable to see some of the areas of the hotel.

Restaurants
The lobby has a large Sunset Bar with large glass windows and low-slung contemporary-looking seating.

The sushi bar, called SATU, features a zen garden in the middle of the space and uses native woods in the furnishings. The chef is from the Philippines and makes sushi to order from 6pm to midnight every day except Sunday. It was a smaller restaurant, probably seating around 50-60.
The Elafiti Restaurant on the 7th floor is open for breakfast and lunch and is self-service with buffet lines. It is extremely large, seating 350 people in a sprawling room. There is a terrace outside this restaurant where guests can eat if the weather cooperates.

The fine dining restaurant is Luna and is open for lunch and dinner with very upscale prices. The décor is hardwood floors with wispy, beige, floor to ceiling drapes giving the light a hazy quality. The chairs and tables are light wood with crisp white linens. It is exclusive, only seating about 30 people at a time.

Final Thoughts
Overall, this hotel was very comfortable, but while the rooms were nice and larger than some hotels we saw, they didn’t feel as homey. I didn’t feel like I would realize I was in a foreign country if I stayed here, which is perfect for some people, and not ideal for others. For those who want to mostly stay put, eat well, get spa treatments and enjoy the views of the sea, it is a good option, especially if they don't mind the occasional taxi ride to the city.

Hotel Dubrovnik Palace - Masarykov put 20, 20000 Dubrovnik, Croatia
Phone +385 20 430 000
Fax +385 20 430 100
Email info@dubrovnikpalace.hr
Web http://www.dubrovnikpalace.hr

Hvar Lavender and Wine

2009-04-26T11:49:00.011-05:00

When the Venetians controlled Hvar, they brought vines. Bless their hearts. Now, the wine industry is one of the major money-makers on Hvar, and their wines are famous throughout Croatia as well as Europe. The many sunny days, sea breezes and rocky soil result in happy grapes. Unfortunately, these excellent vineyards only produce enough wine for Croatian consumption so nothing is exported at this time, and it was impossible to find a place that would ship it for us.

We were lucky enough to be invited to a private wine tasting at the Tomic winery in the lovely coastal town of Jelsa (pronounced Yel'-sa) on Hvar. The pictures here are of Jelsa's harbor.

Tomic is one of the more famous winemakers in Croatia, and his little wine shop is a treat. He is especially known for his reds, which are made from the Plavac Mali grape. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Plavac_mali Our tasting covered rose, white, reds, and a very good dessert wine, almost like a brandy, called Prosec (pronounced Pro'-shek). The wines were paired with homemade local cheese, wine vinegars, pepper cookies (a lot like gingersnaps) and breads. We brought a case of wine back and are very thankful we did.

Another main industry on Hvar is lavender production. All throughout the island are miles and miles of lavender plants, protected by thousands of manmade stone fences to protect the soil from blowing away. From far away, the fences look like a million inchworms, inching down the hills. Unfortunately, it wasn't lavender season, so we didn't get to see the explosion of color that happens in early summer. Yet another reason to go back.

Contact me if you want to learn more about the special wines we drank or how to get your own private tasting at Tomic!

Island of Hvar - Hvar Town

2009-04-26T10:45:00.017-05:00

After an enjoyable stay in Dubrovnik, we headed for the island of Hvar via motorcoach and ferry. The ride took about 3 hours total from Dubrovnik, not including a stop at the ferry port where we waited for our ship to come in to the harbor in Drvenik. There are boats that will take you to Hvar from Dubrovnik during high season, but those can take the better part of a day, so our method was a bit more efficient, if less scenic.

It was a gorgeous, sunny day and the views of the mainland from the ferry were breathtaking. Hvar is one of the sunniest places on the coast and has an average yearly temperature of 62 degrees. Very nice.

Once we landed on Hvar, we had a circuitous ride on a two lane road to the opposite end of the island where our hotel was located, on the harbor in Hvar Town. We checked in and immediately went up to the sunny roof deck to enjoy some cold beverages and lunch. The view was spectacular, and it was easy to imagine what a happening place this must be in the summer.

In the summer, Hvar is a destination for jet setters as well as sun worshippers from across Europe. One of the locals told us that on hot summer nights, the harbor is absolutely filled with yachts tethered together, and most of the time people end up swimming in the crystal clear harbor waters in the dark.

The history of Hvar goes back to 3500 BC, but its heyday started in the 4th century BC when the Greeks colonized it and used it as a strategic position. In the 12th century, the Republic of Venice took over and built a huge fortress/castle which dominates the hill behind Hvar Town.

We climbed WAY up the hill to the fortress, only to find that it was closed. Definitely ask before you make the trek up. The views, however, were still worth it.

Montenegro

2009-04-04T16:36:00.015-05:00

We took advantage of an extra day on the trip and visited Montenegro - a tiny country that has been independent for only three years. It is a short drive to the border from Dubrovnik, but do be prepared to take some time as sometimes the border crossing can take a while. The relationship between those two countries is still tense at times.

We hopped on a coach on across the border and went on a driving tour of the Bay of Kotor. As with so many destinations on this trip, pictures can't do it justice. I would highly recommend seeing the bay by boat, if possible, as on the drive we were limited to only what we could see out the window, not the entire fantastic panorama.

We also went on a walking tour of the walled city of Kotor and took advantage of the farmers' market outside to sample some dried figs and clementines which were delicious. There were also tables of olives, cheeses, flowers, vegetables... The walled city is quite small and doable in a few hours. A lot of it has yet to be rebuilt from the 1979 earthquake, but this work is now resuming with the money coming into the country from tourism. Kotor used to have a large fleet of ships and we spent some time in their naval museum off a small square. In keeping with that tradition, the harbor outside the city is full of boats.

After touring Kotor, we drove up into the mountains on a harrowing road known for its 25 switchbacks. (I'm positive there were more than 25.) Our driver was truly amazing, navigating the turns in our large coach on a single lane road with hardly any guardrails at all. We all breathed a huge sigh of relief when we reached the top and could get out and survey the landscape.

We ambled on into an area that reminded me a bit of South America -- large mountains with green terraced landscapes for farming wherever they could be wedged. The red tile roofs on the buildings stuck out in contrast against the gray of the stone houses and mountains.

We ate a simple, yet lovely, lunch in a mountain village called Njegusi. We had prosciutto, homemade cheese, marinated peppers, pickles, and wine. As is the custom, we were greeted with a potent shot of something resembling grappa. Yeesh. I never got used to it the entire trip! After lunch, we browsed some of the roadside stands, which were selling handmade wool goods from local sheep. The village is a bit busier in the summer as it is known as a center for hiking. It has a few modest accommodations at this time, but is currently more of a stopover.

The former capital city of Cetinje was an eye-opener. We were told it was the capital, but my reading tells me it's actually a 'secondary' capital. One can see that it used to be a city of much grandeur. In fact, it was the capital of a recognized European country in the late 1800s and has at least five remaining embassies from this time. It was a center of intellectualism, culture, and religion. However, in more recent times, it has lost its industry and much of it has fallen into disrepair. It still has a number of historical buildings and is attempting to regain its cultural relevance as the country grows. At this time, however, it is in need of some help. The photo is of one of the main streets in the middle of the day.

I was interviewed for Montenegran television while I was in Cetinje. My big moment in the spotlight will probably never be seen by anyone outside that country, but the questions focused on advice on how to improve the country and what my thoughts were about the capital and my visit to the country. As you can tell from this entry, I see a lot of potential in the beautiful landscapes and charming small towns, but also a lot of risk in how the tourism dollars are allocated as the number of visitors grows. Montenegro hopes to become an elite tourism destination in the next few years, and hopefully some of that money will go to help the citizens as well.

After the capital, we went back down to the populated seaside for a hotel tour along the beach in Budva (the target of hotel development) and then were on our way back home to Dubrovnik. While we had only a short time and focused our trip in what we could do in a day, Montenegro has more sights to offer, including hiking destinations, large lakes, national parks, and of course the shore.

A few additional notes about Montenegro:

They take the Euro, even though they aren't yet an EU country. The EU has started to funnel some money into the country to update infrastructure, but joining the EU is still a controversial move in the country due to the regulations it might enforce in an area where many people are still scraping by. The official application has been filed, and a decision is due to be made this year.

If you do leave the coast, be ready for the dichotomy of this country. The seashore seems to ooze in money, while much of the countryside is full of garbage and the elementary schools in Cetinje don't have swings on their swingsets. It seems to me something could be done - with the billions of dollars flowing in - to make sure some percentage of that money goes to help schools and the like, but I don't know if that is being planned at this early stage. It doesn't seem to have helped yet. If you are conscious of where your money goes when you travel, it might do you well to visit the backroads of Montenegro to make sure some of your funds stay local.

Dubrovnik

2009-03-26T11:23:00.017-05:00

Our hotel, Hotel Excelsior, had the most fantastic location and view of the city from our seaside balcony in the morning. It was so nice to hear the waves crashing on the shore during the evening.

We had a tour from a great guide who was living in Dubrovnik during the recent war. Her stories of what she and her family experienced through the evacuations and war were quite touching, and I would recommend her to anyone who is interested in a private guide in the city. She is a life-long resident and her love and passion for the place are evident.

Dubrovnik has been around since the 5th-7th century, when it was an island. There is debate on the original settlers, but many think it was the Greeks who founded it as a strategic seafaring position. The island eventually reclaimed land between it and the mainland, becoming a peninsula in the Adriatic. It survived on its own as an independent republic for this many years due to its wealth, strategic position, and ability to pay other countries and cities to basically leave it alone. During this time, it had one of the largest fleets of ships in the Mediterranean and was responsible for many major discoveries in medicine and city planning. Its independence ended in 1806 after it surrendered to the French Napoleonic forces to avoid an invasion by the Russians. It was governed by a series of governments until 1918 when it became part of the Kingdom of Yugoslavia.

The setting is spectacular, with huge mountains backing up the city and crashing down into the sea.

There was a coalition of town elders who each rotated leadership responsibility for one month at a time. I really liked the slogan at the top of the door in the Rector's Palace, where the current leader lived for his appointed month, leaving his family at home. It goes something like "Forget your personal problems, your current duty is to serve the public."

The city has three operating monasteries - Franciscan, Dominican, and Jesuit. We went through the Franciscan museum, and there are some very interesting artifacts there, especially from their pharmacy that has been around since before the 15th century and is still operating today.

Dad walked the ramparts around the city twice while we were on our day trip to Montenegro and LOVED it. I think Dubrovnik now rivals his previous Alamo fascination.

1500 people still live permanently within the city walls. Unfortunately, this goes down every year as the residences are being snatched up by seasonal residents who come visit for two weeks each summer. However, there are apartments available to rent that are quite charming, if anyone is considering a visit. I have the contacts for those.

We also enjoyed walking through the quiet streets at night, popping into little restaurants to grab a bite to eat, and enjoying the views. There was a one-of-a-kind view around every corner, and it really was a treat to be able to visit in the off season. During the crush of the cruise season, sometimes 13 (!!) ships unload passengers on the same day and the main street is body to body. For that reason, I would also recommend setting up private shore excursions for anyone who is planning to visit during high season so you get some personal attention. Dealing with the masses on those days will be anything but fun.

We had an excellent meal at the pizzeria Mea Culpa before walking through the city streets back to our hotel.

Interested in planning a memorable trip to Dubrovnik? Contact me at schulketravel@gmail.com.

First night in Dubrovnik

2009-03-24T16:05:00.008-05:00

We said goodbye to Lic and drove to the Zagreb airport where we caught our 45 minute flight to Dubrovnik and met up with the rest of our traveling group. The airport is about 20 minutes south of the city. You take a winding road along the sea coast, taking in the cypress trees and rocky hills, and then you come over a crest and see this.

Pictures can't do it justice. We checked into the Hotel Excelsior, which is a five minute walk from the city, and all met for a welcome drink in the bar. We then walked down with a couple from Chicago to a fun restaurant called Lokanda.

http://www.mea-culpa.hr/index.php?restaurant=restaurants_seaview&dubrovnik=en

The restaurant is a long skinny room that used to be where the fishermen came in and cleaned their catch and sold their fish before entering the city walls (and therefore paying taxes). We had seafood fresh out of the ocean - grilled shrimp, mussels, seafood risotto, and oysters and some nice wine for about $110 for four people - it was quite the deal. Our server, Anita, was charming.

Walking through the streets at night is riveting. The entire city looks white, and the stones are polished smooth with over 700 years of footsteps.

Tomorrow we have a walking tour and will be checking out some local hotels in order to get some work/research in. I'm excited to see more of the city!

Varied Landscapes of Croatia

2009-03-23T17:15:00.008-05:00

I've been amazed at the multiple types of landscapes we've seen here. I've attached a variety of pictures to show what we've seen. For such a small country, it has a ton of diversity in scenery.

Day 3 Continued - Final Visit to Lic

2009-03-22T18:13:00.007-05:00

Here is the last movie of Grandma Anna's house.

After our last visit to Lic, we headed out of the area. We left northern Croatia and the mountains and snow and flew from Zagreb to Dubrovnik, where we were treated with an incredible view when we arrived at sunset.

We dined on lovely seafood and local wine at a restaurant down in the harbor and headed back to get some rest before our guided walking tour tomorrow. The highlight of this evening's meal was when the server asked me if I was Croatian. I guess she thought I was a guide bringing some tourists in for dinner!

Dad started pouting and asked if he didn't also look Croatian? She said, "Not really." So I guess I have some Dubrovnik in me. He is convinced that he is only from Lic and nowhere else so I don't think he was too upset.

If you are interested in learning more or planning a trip like this, contact me at schulketravel@gmail.com.

Discovering our Roots in Croatia - Day 3

2009-03-22T17:45:00.005-05:00

We had to make one more visit to Grandma's house before we left this morning. Dad was definitely drawn back and it was emotional to be there one more time.

The two movies are of the house, the road and panning out across the land in front of the house. Click the arrows to view the movies.

Discovering our Roots in Croatia - Day 2

2009-03-21T17:48:00.006-05:00

What a day. I'm not sure where to start. We got up early in the morning to a HUGE breakfast of rolls, yogurt, eggs, etc etc. I honestly don't know how everyone here doesn't weigh 300 pounds.

Our mission today was to to to the parish church office in Mrkoplaj, a town near Sunger, which houses the records for that area. There we found a delightful priest, Monseigneur Juraj (George) Petrovic who has been a priest in the area for over 50 years. He was quite the story teller and shows some resemblance to the family - see pictures above with the jowls. Father George's mother was a Tadejevic and he grew up in the area so he is likely a very distant cousin.

Thankfully, the Father is extremely organized and was able to pull out the Sunger Book of Souls, and used the letter with the loan for Clarence to turn right to the house number and pull up the family. There is an interesting story about these books - the official books were seized by the Communists, but the priests were allowed to keep their copies as they weren't 'official' state documents. That is the reason George still had them. The originals have since been returned, but are in the city offices which were closed today (Saturday). Also, the land office would be able to tell us exactly where the house used to be, but it was also closed today.

There is so much to share, so I will only summarize here and fill everyone in with the details later as I have photos of all of the pages from the book.

We thought Clarence's real name was Jerolim, but he was born "Jeronim". Both are derivatives of the English name 'Simon'. His parents were Petar and Marija (Anna). Marija's maiden name is actually Sporar, not Spolar. The interesting tidbit there is that the Sporars are a German family. They came from Germany to build the road that links Mrkopalj, Sunger, Fuzine and Lic, and started the town Mrkopalj as a place to house the German road workers. So Clarence/Jeronim was actually half German, which likely explains the blue eyes. Of course, when enough time passes, they become Croatian, so we can pick either one. :)

Petar (son of Jakova and Katj Tadejevic) died in 1890, well before the children left for America. When Jeronim and Jelena left, they were the only survivors of five children. His siblings Sebastijan, Angelija, and Cecelija all died in their teens, the last (Angelija) dying in 1901 at 18 years old. And Mama only lived until 1905, so didn't live much longer after sending her remaining children to America in 1903.

The loan that secured their passage was passed to who we think was a sibling of Petar, Ivan Tadejevic. In fact, the note that shows the repayment of the loan has Ivan's name in it so we think he must have been a close relative still in Croatia who assumed the debt when Marija died. Our best guess from how family matters worked then is he was likely Jeronim's uncle.

Using this information, Father George was able to tell us a choice of houses where the Tadejevic family would have lived. The exact house no longer exists, but we found the land which still has a number of homes on it. And on the land, is a house where Tadejevics still live. Best as we can tell, Peter Tadejevic would be Dad's third cousin. His grandfather, also Peter, and Clarence (Jeronim) are likely first cousins. Interestingly enough, Peter also has blue eyes, just like Clarence did. I've attached a picture of this family as well. He works as a driver for the logging company.

So - the direct line of the family is only in America. There is a niece of Petar named Anna who married a man named Jakova Fak in 1892. There are still a number of Faks in the area, and they would signify a direct connection to Jeronim's family line.

If we had more time, we could go back to the books and pull up Petar's siblings and verify this information and descendants, but tomorrow is mass day and the priest will be busy. And we are off in the mid-afternoon to our next destination. So we will reserve this task for the next family members to visit.

If you are interested in planning a trip like this, contact me at schulketravel@gmail.com.

Discovering our Roots in Croatia - Day 1

2009-03-20T15:47:00.008-05:00

Arrived in Croatia tired but happy after a day + of travel - planes, trains and automobiles. After a visit with a local priest today, we found Aunt Jela's death record and were able to track down her address. Drove to Lic, where we found the house, as well as a gentleman who knew both Jelena and her husband Ivan. This gentleman has family in Hibbing! See attached pictures of the house.

It is no longer in either family. Ivan Radosevic had someone who was taking care of him when he was infirm and willed the house to him. That man has since died and his wife sold it five years ago to someone not related to either the Milosevic or Radosevic families. The area around it has since grown up with trees that are about 30 years old - likely because no animals are grazing in the area. There is a large valley with farmland and then very high mountains, which are known for paragliding.

It is cold and snowy here - just like winter in Minnesota, except terrible winds that whip off the mountains near the sea. However, the scenery is very mountainous with large spruce trees. The main industries are logging and farming - specifically potatoes and lovely mushrooms. We had a great dinner of local trout and gnocchi.

Off to Sunger tomorrow to track down the Tadejevic and Brozovich families - the older gentleman we found in Lic knew the names right away and said 'Sunger' without any prompting. And our wonderful guide, Marko, has a good friend from Sunger with the last name Tadejevic. The detective work continues.